Le Bernardin
155 West 51st Street
New York, New York
(212) 554-1515
Nestled into the ground floor of the Equitable Building in the heart of New York’s theater district, Le Bernardin has been wooing the world’s culinary cognoscenti for over half a century. It all began in 1972 when Gilbert & Maguy Le Coze opened a restaurant devoted entirely to seafood on the Quai de la 
Tournelle in Paris. Then in 1986, shortly after receiving a third Michelin star, brother & sister transported their culinary endeavors to midtown Manhattan.
In 1994, when Gilbert died unexpectedly of a heart attack, the then 29-year-old Eric Ripert (pictured) succeeded him as chef de cuisine/and later co-owner, bringing his own unique flair to the French-inspired piscatorial fare… And “the well-deserved accolades,” as writer/editor Kate Nelson of Artful Living magazine noted, “have rolled in ever since.”
In addition to receiving three Michelin stars – one of only fourteen U.S. restaurants to be so honored – Le Bernardin also holds several other records as well. It received a four-star review from the New York Times 
only three months after its debut; and it is the only New York four-star restaurant that has maintained its status for more than three decades (most recently in a review published on February 7, 2023, by Pete Wells). It is a perennial on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list, and has also garnered more James Beard Awards than any other New York City restaurant. In 2017, Le Bernardin ranked second on La Liste, a privately published list of the top 1,000 restaurants in the world. In 2018, La Liste ranked it number one. Most recently, in 2023, it was ranked third behind Frantzén (Sweden) and Guy Savoy (France).
As you have undoubtedly surmised, given the above, dining at Le Bernardin will not be an inexpensive proposition. The four-course dinner menu is priced at $198.00 per person (plus beverages, tax & gratuity)… the eight-course chef’s tasting menu, $298.00 per person; $468.00 with wine pairings. And bear something else in mind: This is the hottest restaurant ticket in New York; so, your chances of procuring a dinner reservation lie somewhere between slim and none.
There is, however, a rather simple solution to this conundrum, and a very pleasant one at that. If you have a bit of leeway in your dining schedule, Le Bernardin serves lunch Monday – Friday, 12:00 p.m. – 2:30 p.m. Reservations are infinitely easier to come by… and the three-course menu infinitely less expensive ($120.00 per person; plus, beverages, tax & gratuity).
My dining companion and I recently reserved a table for a late Friday lunch – 2:00 p.m. – which proved to be perfect timing and a most enjoyable experience. The restaurant’s dining room was just shy of capacity when we arrived, gradually emptying out during the next several hours. There was a soft conversational buzz in the room, the atmosphere was relaxed and subdued, the service polished and unobtrusive.
And the cuisine…? Absolutely incomparable. The moment the amuse-bouche hits the table – mini toasts accompanied by an addictive chunky salmon spread 
– you know that you’re in good hands… and that the best is yet to come.
The printed menu is divided into three categories: Almost Raw (cold appetizers); Barely Touched (warm appetizers); and Lightly Cooked (main courses). For the three-course prix fixe lunch, diners may choose one item from either Almost Raw or Barely Touched, one item from Lightly Cooked, and one dessert.
To start things off, my dining companion simply could not resist the Oysters (pictured above) accompanied by 
two mignonette sauces (one mild, one spicy), upon which she immediately bestowed her imprimatur. I, on the other hand, went directly for the Tuna (pictured). I know it doesn’t look particularly special; but, trust me, this is the stuff that gastronomic dreams are made of. Yellowfin tuna is pounded into a silky ruby-colored sheet, under which is sequestered a wafer-thin toasted baguette adorned with a generous spreading of foie gras. A marriage of flavors made in heaven. Just one bite was enough to convince me that Pete Wells’ dictum (slightly paraphrased) – “A restaurant like Le Bernardin is run by people who know things that others have yet to learn.” – should be etched in stone.
But on to the entrées… Normally when reviewing, I make it a point to order something different than my dining partner(s). In this case, however, she and I were of one mind… we simply could not resist the Dover Sole (pictured). And although it carried a hefty $38.00 
per person supplemental charge, I can assure you that it was worth every penny. The sole was pan roasted, adorned with crisp green olive rings & toasted almonds, and finished with a subtly seductive sherry wine emulsion.
Several factors come into play here. At first bite, the sole struck me as slightly underdone. But then… I realized that the delicate flesh seemed just right – firm yet tender – and I began to suspect that I may have become conditioned by numerous lesser establishments where fish are decidedly OVERcooked. Sometimes, less IS more… Ditto with regard to the sauce. As I’ve noted on several previous occasions, matters piscatorial are best served by those accoutrements that intrude the least. And that is certainly true of Le Bernardin, where sauces, while generously apportioned, are also sophisticated in nature and succeed in gently caressing rather than smothering the objects of their affection.
While seafood remains Mr. Ripert’s specialty, the Michelin Guide also bestowed accolades upon his Vegetarian Tasting Menu, which includes such highly-prized meatless ingredients as morel mushrooms and black truffles. In addition, upon request, he will also prepare such items as Filet Mignon, Guinea Hen filled with truffle and foie gras, Morel Tagliatelle, and Whole Red Snapper baked in fresh Herbes de Provence.
… And don’t sell desserts short. Under the watchful eye of Executive Chef Orlando Soto, the pastry kitchen turns out such palate-pleasers as Jasmine Rice, 
caramelized rice with white peach sorbet; Carrot “Cupcake,” companioned by vanilla crème fraiche; and Citrus “Madeleine,” comprised of vanilla genoise sponge, lemon mousseline, and summer berries. During our recent visit, my dining companion and I savored such delicious dénouements as Pistachio Praline with Grand Marnier bavarois (Bavarian cream) and Warm Peruvian Chocolate Tart garnished with Tahitian vanilla ice cream (pictured).
Curated by wine director Aldo Sohm, in collaboration with Chef Eric Ripert, Le Bernardin’s award-winning wine list is a thing of beauty. I won’t bore you with the exorbitant details… On the other hand, there are several 
very nice fairly reasonably priced wines (for New York, that is) available by the glass. My dining companion, for example, thoroughly enjoyed her 2022 Alzinger Grüner Veltliner from Wachau, Austria. I started with the 2021 Domaine Testut Chablis from Burgundy, France, and then moved on to a rather pricey 2021 Domaine Vincent Latour Meursault. Both were excellent.
I should mention that Mr. Sohm, a native of Austria, is one of the most respected and highly-lauded sommeliers in the wine industry. In 2008, he was dubbed the “Best Sommelier in the World” by Decanter magazine. In 2014, in partnership with Maguy Le Coze and Eric Ripert, he opened the Aldo Sohm Wine Bar just a few short steps from Le Bernardin at 151 West 51st Street. Sohm and Eric Ripert’s culinary staff collaborated to create a casual menu of cheese & charcuterie, salads, tartines, and other simple, shareable dishes that would pair well with local and international wines.
In 2019, Mr. Sohm published Wine Simple: A Totally Approachable Guide from a World-Class Sommelier, which I reviewed in April 2021. This book is highly recommended and readily available from Amazon and numerous other sources online.
The Bottom Line: If you appreciate the unmitigated joys of fine dining, Le Bernardin should definitely be high on your bucket list. Truly an extraordinary experience that is, indeed, worthy of a journey.
Bon Appétit & Cheers!
TAD
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