Following an invigorating five days of sightseeing, wine-tasting, and restaurant-hopping in South Africa, we boarded the Azamara Journey, embarking upon 
a somewhat unusual odyssey, a 21-day cruise that would transport us up the west coast of Africa, making port in several third-world countries, the Canary Islands, and Madeira Island, Portugal, before eventually disembarking in Lisbon.
Las Palmas, Canary Islands: The Canary Islands – an archipelago in the Atlantic Ocean a scant 67 miles from the northwest African mainland – are an autonomous community of Spain established on August 10, 1982.
Las Palmas de Gran Canaria (pictured), also called Las Palmas, city and port, capital of Las Palmas 
province, is located on the northeastern coast of Gran Canaria and is the largest city on the island. Founded in 1478 at the mouth of a ravine, the city was named for the abundance of palm trees, and was the headquarters for the Spanish conquest of Tenerife and La Palma islands, and was later a major supply port for ships bound for Spanish America. The port is also a transportation hub for travel to the Iberian Peninsula.
Chief exports include cement, oil, bananas, tomatoes, and other agricultural produce. Tourism, based on the mild winter climate, excellent beaches, and resort facilities, accounts for more than three-fifths of the economy. The airport is located 11 miles south of Las Palmas. Population as of 2018, 378,517.
Our excursion took us to the beautiful fishing village of Puerto de las Nieves, which is located on the northwestern coast of Gran Canaria, where we were to “Soak in the picturesque scenery and explore Paseo de los Poetas and its seafood restaurants, craft shops and galleries.” That, of course, was the way things were supposed to transpire. Unfortunately, our guide was a bit of a flake… So, while my traveling companion & I – and a number of other passengers – were delayed while assisting a gentleman off the bus who had difficulty walking, Ms. Speedy Gonzales simply couldn’t be bothered to wait around and, in the company of several other overly eager beavers, took off like a shot and never looked back.
By the time we reached the lovely waterfront promenade (pictured), Ms. Speedo and her truncated entourage had already disappeared from sight. So, rather than chasing after them in a frustrating game of hide and seek, we took in the beautiful scene – and a few photographs – and returned to the spot where we knew the bus would eventually return. When the guide and her followers reappeared, the woman had not a clue that she had left a sizeable portion of her group behind. Several people were thoroughly pissed… and told her so in no uncertain terms.
We boarded our bus once again and headed for Valle de Agaete, one of the greenest valleys on the island. Our destination was Finca La Laja – Bodega Los Berrazales, a 200-year-old ranch that is both a coffee & tropical fruit plantation and wine cellar.
The Agaete Valley is the only valley in the whole of Europe that grows coffee. And we were treated to a spirited explanation of the entire process… from growing the coffee plant… to harvesting the fruit… and finally the roasting of the coffee beans. The best part, of course, was the tasting. Their home-grown coffee was not quite as strong as I had expected, but it was still quite flavorful & well-rounded, and was accompanied by a delicious selection of local cheeses, jams, and cake.
But I’m somewhat ahead of myself… Preceding the coffee, the ranch also produces Los Berrazales, their award-winning wines. And, following a tour of the bodega (wine cellar), we were treated to a tasting of their five varietals, all of which were quite excellent.
I should add that their wines and their coffee (and a number of other products) may only be purchased onsite.
All in all – our ditzy guide notwithstanding – a very pleasant and rewarding afternoon.
Tenerife, Canary Islands: Overlooked by Mount Teide, Spain’s highest peak, Tenerife is the largest of the Canary Islands. With a land area of 785 square miles and a population of 978,100 inhabitants as of January 2022, it is also the most populous island of Spain and of Macaronesia.
The capital of the island, Santa Cruz de Tenerife is also the seat of the island council. This city and the previously 
mentioned Las Palmas de Gran Canaria are the co-capitals of the autonomous community of the Canary Islands. The two cities are both home to governmental institutions, such as the offices of the presidency and the ministries. This has been the governmental arrangement since 1927 (Pictured: Auditorio de Tenerife, Santa Cruz).
Teide National Park, located in the center of the island, is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It includes 
Mount Teide, which has the highest elevation in Spain, and the highest elevation among all the islands in the Atlantic Ocean. It is also the third-largest volcano in the world, when measured from its base.
Tourism is the most prominent industry in the Canaries, which are one of the major tourist destinations in the world. Tenerife is the most visited island in the archipelago and one of the most important tourist destinations in Spain.
Our visit to Tenerife offered three possible excursions. For something a bit different, we opted for a journey through the lush Esperanza Forest to the 
mysterious Pirámides de Güímar… The Pyramids of Güímar are six rectangular pyramid-shaped, terraced structures built from lava stone without the use of mortar. They are located in the district of Chacona, part of the town of Güímar. The structures have been dated to the 19th century AD. Standing as high as 39 feet, they may have originally been a byproduct of contemporary agricultural techniques. Similar pyramids have been found in various sites on Tenerife. There were originally nine pyramids in Güímar, only six of which have survived.
In 1990, Thor Heyerdahl became aware of the “Canarian Pyramids” by reading an article written by Francisco Padrón in a Tenerife newspaper. Heyerdahl, a Norwegian adventurer/ethnographer with a background in zoology, botany, and geography, was famous for his 1947 Kon-Tiki expedition in which he sailed 5,000 miles across the Pacific Ocean in a hand-built raft from South America to the Tuamotu Islands. The expedition was designed to demonstrate that ancient people could have made long sea voyages, creating contacts between societies. Heyerdahl made other voyages to demonstrate the possibility of contact between widely separated ancient peoples, specifically the Ra II expedition of 1970, when he sailed from the west coast of Africa to Barbados in a papyrus reed boat.
Despite archaeological evidence to the contrary, Heyerdahl hypothesized that the Canarian pyramids formed a temporal and geographic stopping point on voyages between ancient Egypt and the Maya civilization. His views initiated a major controversy among historians, esoterics, archaeologists, astronomers, history buffs, and the general public at large. In 1998, he founded the Ethnographic Park & Botanical Garden Pirámides de Güímar.
Funchal, Madeira Island, Portugal: In a delightfully informative article published in Forbes, writer Tom Mullen enlightened his readers as to “Why Madeira Island Is A World Apart.”
“Madeira is an oddly unique geographical and cultural blip – a rich little universe of rough mountains and lush slopes slapped by Atlantic breakers… 
Together with the islands of Porto Santo and Desertas and the Selvagens – Madeira forms an autonomous region of the country of Portugal. It sits 550 miles west of the Moroccan city of Casablanca… Safe, beautiful and with a balmy climate, this mountainous island is a joy to visit.” And, having just returned from an all-too-brief but exceedingly pleasurable visit to this unique land of enchantment, I could not agree more.
The capital of Madeira is Funchal (pictured above), where nearly half of the island’s quarter million people reside. Please note the topography… Despite recent transportation engineering, many steep and twisted routes still pass through the lush landscapes. Within the city of Funchal, for example, one road averages a 25% slope. Some hillside homes still lack driveways due to the steepness of the land on which they are situated. Such rugged terrain, however, also provides a series of incredibly breathtaking views, courtesy of the island’s seven scenic cable cars.
The cruise line offered a number of interesting excursions here and, I freely admit, the choice was exceedingly difficult… However, the Scenic Drive & Tea 
at Reid’s Palace proved to be quite fortuitous for a variety of reasons. First of all, it was but a short hop to Pico dos Barcelos, an observation point at 1,165 feet above sea level with stunning, sweeping views of Funchal, the sea beyond (pictured: taking in the view).
There is also a café, a restaurant, and several stalls where souvenirs and crafts may be purchased – which leads me to the second reason I was pleased with our choice of excursions… After taking several photographs, I wandered into the café/souvenir shop, seeking – honestly – a cup of coffee. There I spotted a fellow passenger savoring complimentary sips of Poncha da Madeira – an enticing combo of honey, rum, lemon & passion fruit – so I decided to join her. And whoa… this definitely will warm the cockles on a cold winter’s night!
I subsequently discovered that this lethal alcoholic concoction was the traditional libation of Madeira Island…Evidently, 
according to some studies, the drink originated in India, where it is known as Panch, which means, literally translated, “five ingredients.” These include arrack – spirits distilled from rice or coconuts – lemon juice, sugar, spice & tea. The first mention of Poncha outside of India was in Madeira, in Câmara De Lobos, a small coastal fishing town where British Prime Minister Winston Churchill used to visit and paint oil images of village scenes. Originally medicinal, the elixir was used by fishermen to soothe throats irritated by sea spray. Today, the drink is often paired with a snack known as tremoços – lupini beans sprinkled with salt and garlic.
Should you visit Madeira, imbibing in this fruity local firewater is something of a must… Needless to say, I purchased a small bottle and two matching shot glasses as souvenirs.
From there, it was on to Reid’s Palace for afternoon tea. The historic hotel is located to the west of Funchal Bay in an 
imposing position looking out over the Atlantic Ocean surrounded by 10 acres of enchanting tropical gardens (pictured).
William Reid, the son of a Scottish farmer, originally arrived in Madeira in 1836. He hired out quintas (country estates) to wealthy invalids and then moved on to hotels. However, he died before his Reid’s Hotel was completed. The hotel was designed by architects George Somers Clarke and John Thomas Micklethwaite. Reid’s two sons, William and Alfred, fulfilled their father’s dream by opening the doors of Reid’s Palace in November 1891, as the New Hotel. This later became the New Palace Hotel, then Reid’s Palace or simply Reid’s. It was a luxury retreat combining Edwardian elegance with the latest comforts of the day.
Famous guests over the years have included General Fulgencio Batista, Winston Churchill, Anthony Eden, David Lloyd George, deposed emperor Karl von Habsburg, Józef Pilsudski, Roger Moore, Gregory Peck, poet Rainer Maria Rilke, Albert Schweitzer, and George Bernard Shaw.
The hotel was acquired by Orient-Express Hotels Ltd., which changed its name to Belmond Ltd. on March 10, 2014. At that time, the hotel changed its name to Belmond Reid’s Palace. In April 2019, Belmond Ltd. was purchased by Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy (LVMH) in a $3.2 billion transaction.
Reid’s is particularly known for its tradition of serving afternoon tea on the terrace. Unfortunately, our group was a bit too large for the terrace; however, the dining room was quite cozy, and the service was certainly up to Reid’s high standards… ditto their justly famous and incredibly delicious handmade scones. As an added attraction, the view of our ship docked in nearby Funchal Harbor was simply spectacular (pictured).
To be continued…
Bon Appétit & Cheers!
TAD
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