Pinotage, a red wine grape that is a cross between pinot noir and cinsault, is South Africa’s signature varietal. Pinotage was created in South Africa by Abraham Izak Perold, the first Professor of Viticulture at Stellenbosch University. He was attempting to combine the best qualities of the robust cinsault with the subtle refinement of pinot noir (cinsault was known locally as “Hermitage,” hence the interesting conflation of names).
Despite the fact that Pinotage is deceptively easy to grow, excessively high yields, lack of understanding, and poor trial-and-error methods of production have contributed to the wine’s historic struggles and poor reputation.
In recent years, fortunately, a remarkable renaissance has taken place. Quality-minded producers have worked to better understand cultivation techniques, as well as ideal climates and terroirs for the wine’s varied final expressions. And there is absolutely no question that the average quality of Pinotage is infinitely better today than it was 20 years ago; the grape is also better understood and respected.
During my recent cruise from Cape Town – Lisbon, I had the opportunity to enjoy several South African wines. The most noteworthy, however, was the 2021 Swartland Pinotage (pictured above), an example of the so-called “New Wave” of this controversial varietal… and it was, in a word, excellent. Plenty of concentrated ripe fruit, rich complexity, and a delightful suppleness on the palate. As smooth as silk going down. It was so good, in fact, that it remained my red wine of choice for the entire voyage.
Fabulous… Just one little problem… I have checked every possible source, and this wine simply is not available in the US. That’s the bad news. Now for the good…
On a whim, I checked out my local State Store just to see if I could find a Pinotage that was similar in nature. What I discovered, while not exactly comparable, still turned out to be an incredible find, as the 2021 Barista Pinotage, produced by legendary South African winemaker Bertus Fourie, is its own unique oenological treasure. The 2021 is a deliberately and distinctly modern interpretation of South Africa’s signature grape. It is significantly lighter in body than the aforementioned Pinotage and will certainly remind most wine lovers – this writer included – of a top-notch Pinot Noir. Nuances of vanilla and mocha and silky-smooth tannins make this a completely accessible wine that is ready to be enjoyed.
Readily available from a variety of sources, it is currently priced at $15.59 at Pennsylvania State Stores.
Cheers!
Be Safe & Stay Well
TAD
{ 0 comments… add one now }