Vetri Cucina
1312 Spruce Street
Philadelphia, Pennsylvania
(215) 732-3478
“Vexed out at Vetri”
Tucked away in a stately Spruce Street townhouse – the former home of Georges Perrier’s late, great Le Bec Fin before it moved to its Walnut Street location – Vetri Cucina, which opened its doors in 1998, remains the distinguished flagship of chef/restaurateur Marc Vetri’s somewhat diminished restaurant empire (he sold the great majority of his holdings to Philadelphia-based Urban Outfitters in 2015, though he still maintains outposts in Las Vegas and Kyoto, Japan).
The interior is sedate and sophisticated; the intimate ambiance especially cozy during our recent visit, as tables were properly spaced to maintain social distancing. And the service is another plus… While servers are young and personable, they are also extremely knowledgeable with regard to both menu and wine list. They set the tone for your evening at table; and you sense from the moment you’re seated that your experience will be a pleasant one.
At the moment, the only dining offering available is the four-course Menu Degustazione, priced at $125.00 per person (plus beverages, tax & gratuity). There are, however, a number of freebies along the way, which add immensely to your enjoyment. My permanent dining partner and I began, for example, with complimentary glasses of prosecco spiked with bitters, a delightful concoction that immediately energized our appetites for the good things to come. This was followed by an intriguing amuse-bouche of mini toasts adorned with silky chicken liver mousse topped with mascarpone and pistachio.
To begin the meal proper, my dining partner couldn’t resist the Squab en Croûte, the moist tender meat of a young pigeon encased in a light, flaky pastry crust. The thing that really attracted her to the dish, however, was its accompaniment, the rhubarb agrodolce. This is a condiment that is made by reducing sugar or honey, vinegar, and sometimes fruit and/or vegetables; in this case, rhubarb. The result was a slightly sticky, marvelously tangy sweet-tart sauce that succeeded in propelling the appetizer into orbit.
And my Sweet Onion Crepe (pictured) was every bit its equal and even more addictive. Prepared to caramelized perfection, the sweet onion flavor was simply irresistible. But the pièce de résistance was the pool of truffle-infused parmesan fondue, the perfect complement to the decadently delicious starter… This is one wow of a dish that is simply not to be missed.
The pasta course also had a great deal going for it. My dining partner quickly settled on the Spinach Gnocchi, which was an excellent choice… And the ethereal dumplings found the perfect traveling companions in shaved ricotta salata and splash of brown butter. (Ricotta Salata is a Sicilian cheese made from the whey part of sheep’s milk, pressed, salted, and aged for at least 90 days. It is milky white in color with a firm texture and salty taste.) But even better, in my opinion, was the Ramp Ravioli (pictured) revved up with a ricotta cheese filling and dash of lemon. An absolute winner!
As an added bonus, the kitchen sent out a complimentary plate of their Tagliolini with Morel Mushroom Ragu for us to share. Tagliolini is a type of ribbon pasta, long like spaghetti, similar to tagliatelle, but thin like capellini. It is a traditional recipe in the Molise and Piedmont regions of Italy. Although not as photogenic as either the Spinach Gnocchi or Ramp Ravioli, the Tagliolini was, in its own unique way, exceedingly comforting as well as soul-satisfyingly delicious.
Since my dining partner and I both love Dover sole, when the Dover Sole for Two was announced as an entrée special, it was, as they say, a done deal – especially since our server noted that it would be prepared à la meunière. The word itself means “miller’s wife” in French. The fish is first dredged in flour and then sautéed. The meunière sauce, as the name implies, is a simple, rustic presentation consisting of brown butter, chopped parsley, and lemon.
What arrived at our table, however, was strictly a bastardized version… filets drowned in a surprisingly viscous sauce overwhelmed with radish slices and a salty flavor derived from a surfeit of capers… And, as if to add insult to injury, the texture of the fish was decidedly rubbery, a sure sign of overcooking. Not the kitchen’s finest hour.
I have always been of the opinion that matters piscatorial – specifically delicate denizens of the deep like Dover sole – are best served by those accoutrements that intrude the least. Sauces, in other words, should gently caress rather than smother the objects of their affection.
Up until this point, I freely confess, everything had been absolutely spot-on… But if there is one lesson I’ve learned during my years as a restaurant reviewer – or “hired belly,” as the late Jay Jacobs was fond of referring to those in his profession – marvelous appetizers notwithstanding, if a restaurant is going to let you down, disappointment is most likely to rear its ugly head with the appearance of the entrées… And, unfortunately, that was the case here.
Desserts, however, were right back on track. My dining partner, who is particularly fond of rhubarb, went right for the Rhubarb Crumb Cake, a scrumptious affair companioned by dabs of pureed fennel and tiara of lemon swirl gelato. My Citrus Pavlova – a meringue-based dessert named after Russian ballerina Anna Pavlova – a delightfully crisp crust filled with whipped cheesecake topped with blood orange granita and whipped cream, was equally commendable. Since we were celebrating a special occasion, the kitchen also treated us to a complimentary Chocolate Polenta Souffle with vanilla gelato (pictured), an enticing treat.
One very important additional item needs to be mentioned… namely, the wines. Two white wines being offered by the glass were particularly noteworthy. The first was the Tiefenbrunner Müller Thurgau 2018 “Feldmarschall von Fenner” from the Alto Adige region of Italy; the second, Domaine Thomas St. Aubin 1er Cru 2018 “Murgers des Dents de Chien,” a chardonnay from Burgundy, France. Both wines were extremely impressive… And the restaurant’s price tag was pretty impressive as well… $35.00 per glass. $35.00!!!!!
Both these wines were very nice, indeed… but charging $35.00 per glass is more than just a little outrageous. Especially when you realize that the Tiefenbrunner may be purchased online for $43.99 per bottle ($48.99 through PA State Stores); and the Domaine Thomas is available from Total Wine for $59.99 per bottle.
Couple this with the disappointing Dover sole, and the fact that the check for the evening, including tax and tip, came to over $400.00, and you begin to understand why our visit to Vetri Cucina prompted such a host of mixed emotions.
Bon Appétit!
Be Safe & Stay Well
TAD
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