From New Zealand, With Love

by artfuldiner on September 28, 2020

in Artful Diner Mini Review, Opinion, Wine, Wining and Dining

Loveblock - VineyardIf you’re a wine lover – or even if you’re not – you’ve probably heard the name Kim Crawford. Kim Crawford wines, more specifically the Marlborough, New Zealand, Sauvignon Blanc, can be found in seemingly every supermarket and wine & spirits store from coast to coast and border to border. Kim Crawford has become synonymous with NZ Sauvignon Blanc.

Interestingly enough, however, Kim Crawford the man hasn’t had anything to do with Kim Crawford the brand for over ten years. But even more ironic is the fact that most Americans think Kim Crawford is a woman. “If it weren’t for actress Kim Novak, Kim still would be a man’s name,” Mr. Crawford joked recently.

In 2003 Crawford needed cash to double the Kim Crawford brand’s capacity and was having difficulty with the banks… so he sold the Kim Crawford brand to a company called Vincor. All was going well – Kim Crawford wines continued to prosper, becoming one of the early New Zealand brands to gain recognition in the United States – when things took a dramatic turn in 2006 and the label was gobbled up by Constellation Brands, the world’s largest wine company.

Loveblock - OwnersMr. Crawford left the company six months later armed with enough cash to add to his already 100 acres and start Loveblock. He and his wife, Erica, now own all their vineyards and completely control the Loveblock brand and its wines. The Crawfords have 200 acres in Marlborough’s Awartere Valley, at the north end of New Zealand’s south-island, their organic vineyard, which produces sauvignon blanc and pinot gris. They also own another 20 acres in Central Otago, at the south end, where they grow pinot noir. (The Loveblock farm in Awatere Valley is certified organic by BioGro New Zealand, the country’s leading organic certifier. The Central Otago property, purchased in 2008 and dedicated solely to Pinot Noir is SWNZ – Sustainable Winegrowing New Zealand – accredited.)

I found the Loveblock wines to be sophisticated, elegant, and complex. In a 2018 interview, for example, Mr. Crawford noted that he was attempting to move away from stereotypical sauvignon blancs toward what he described as wines with a “more mature style.”

But New Zealand wines are clearly becoming more diversified, offering wine lovers infinitely more than just sauvignon blanc… And Loveblock appears to be on the cutting edge of this movement, with their recently tasted pinot gris and pinot noir leading the way.

Loveblock - Pinot Gris 2018Loveblock 2018 Pinot Gris (Marlborough): Pinot Gris (Grigio) has a number of different styles. The wines produced in Italy tend to be light-bodied and on the acidic side. Those hailing from Oregon, on the other hand, tend to be fuller bodied, more rounded, and less acidic. The organic Pinot Gris from Loveblock, however, tends to go its own way… It is decidedly “elegant” – a word not usually associated with Pinot Gris – supple and as smooth as silk.

The 2018, for example, offers up pear and apple aromas with subtle floral notes. On the palate, it is breathtakingly delicate yet perfectly balanced and beautifully textured with a mouthwatering acidity and just enough residual sugar to round off the edges. A Pinot Gris, as Decanter magazine noted, “to sink into.” It also garnered 92 points and was designated an “Editors’ Choice” by the Wine Enthusiast. This is a wine to enjoy with delicate Asian flavors, a variety of seafood, or simply by itself.

The Loveblock 2018 Pinot Gris lists for $23.99 but is currently on sale in Pennsylvania State Stores for $17.99. I don’t usually get so hyped up over Pinot Gris… but this wine is a winner in every respect.

Loveblock - Someone's Darling Vineyard Loveblock 2018 Pinot Noir (Central Otago): Despite the great love he has for his Marlborough wines, such as Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Gris, there is absolutely no doubt that Mr. Crawford is obsessed with his Central Otago, “Someone’s Darling” Vineyard, Pinot Noir – a Pinot Noir that is quite different from the rest of New Zealand’s style of this grape. Because of the long days – up to 18 hours of sunshine – the skins of the grapes are thicker; hence and the wines are more “masculine” with darker, brooding flavors… And that is precisely the style that Mr. Crawford prefers.

Interestingly, however, his 2018, which has received many accolades, including being chosen #46 in the Wine Spectator Top 100 of 2019, just happens to be in an atypical “feminine” style, sporting enticing clove-scented notes of plum and black cherry, a rich creamy texture, and elegant body. This is an excellent wine that is also quite versatile and pairs well with a great variety of foods.

The 2018 Loveblock Pinot Noir is currently available through Pennsylvania State Stores at $32.99. I think that’s a little pricey; however, if you enjoy a truly elegant Pinot Noir, it is definitely worth the expenditure. It is less expensive from other sources, Total Wine, for instance (though not a great deal), and online (but don’t forget you have to pay for shipping).  Try a bottle… you won’t be disappointed.

Cheers!

Be Safe

TAD

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