Eddie V’s Prime Seafood
670 West Dekalb Pike
King of Prussia, Pennsylvania
(610) 337-7823
https://www.eddiev.com/locations/pa/king-of-prussia/king-of-prussia/8522
And you thought dining at Davio’s Northern Italian Steakhouse was an expensive proposition, right? Think again. There’s a new restaurant in town, and it has just raised the monetary bar – significantly. Welcome to Eddie V’s, the western suburbs’ new culinary hot spot and high rent district.
Just how high? In the “Shellfish to Share” department, that impressive-looking Shellfish Tower will set you back $70.00; the South African Lobster Pot, $89.00. The “Prime Seafood” begins at $33.00 for the Norwegian Salmon and peaks $89.00 for the Cold-Water Lobster Tails. And that 8-oz. Filet Mignon and South African Lobster Tail, a “Chef’s Classic,” will put an $87.00 dent in your wallet. Oh, by the way… should you elect to start things off with a Caviar Tasting – a trio of Siberian, Kaluga, and Ossetra – better prepare your AMEX for a $165.00 hit.
But even before you set eyes on the menu, you sense that the evening will not be for the faint of finance… The waterfall as you cross the threshold… the team of smiling faces behind the hostess desk just waiting to be of assistance… the crystal chandeliers… white-jacketed servers… the soft sounds of live jazz emanating from the bustling bar all conspire to put the fear of God into your pocketbook. The testosterone level in most bovine palaces is so thick you can cut it with a steak knife. Eddie V’s Prime Seafood, on the other hand, speaks with a more luxuriously opulent accent.
But say what you will about the elegant dressed-to-impress ambiance, the important issue still remains: Does the quality of the restaurant’s cuisine justify its over-the-top tariffs? Well… yes and no… At least in my view.
First of all, there is absolutely no question that the seafood, which is flown in fresh daily, is at the very peak of good health; it is also impeccably prepared & attractively presented. And since Chef Greg Vassos, whose impressive curriculum vitae includes a stint at New York’s Le Bernadin, is the power-behind-the-stove, this certainly comes as no surprise.
Not only are his piscatorial offerings prepared to perfection, they are also artfully paired with a variety of accoutrements that succeed in caressing rather than smothering the objects of their affection. Take his pictured Misoyaki Alaska Halibut ($40.00), for example. The filet is pan roasted to a snowy white countenance (rather than slightly translucent at the core), yet it remains marvelously moist and flaky. It then swims to table in a bewitchingly ethereal miso broth awash with sugar snap peas and shiitake mushrooms.
Of similar ilk is the rich and succulent Chilean Sea Bass ($47.00). It is prepared Hong Kong-style, steamed, and then served up in an elegantly light soy broth. The American Red Snapper ($40.00), on the other hand, is pan seared and teamed with a charred heirloom tomato broth adorned with roasted corn and beech mushrooms… And the Norwegian Salmon ($33.00) finds a perfect match in a robust mustard & rye whiskey glaze and smattering of spinach and baby carrots. Equally recommendable is the presentation of pictured Georges Bank Scallops ($37.00). The bivalves are beautifully sautéed to a golden brown, delightfully meaty at the interior, and finished with citrus fruit, roasted almonds, and an irresistible brown butter sauce.
Meatier matters are more straightforward. You have the Center-Cut Filet Mignon: 8-ounces ($42.00); 12-ounces ($49.00)… USDA Prime Bone-In New York Strip: 18-ounces ($53.00)… USDA Prime Bone-In Ribeye: 22-ounces ($55.00). Then of course, there are several spruced up versions… like the 18-oz. USDA Prime Bone-In New York Strip Au Poivre ($56.00), which sports a cracked black peppercorn Cognac sauce. But it was the pictured Bacon Wrapped Filets “Oscar” Style with King Crab ($56.00) that drew the oohs and aahs at our table. Grilled asparagus and a luscious Béarnaise filled in the blanks. Decadently rich about covers it.
The accompaniments also get high marks… The combo of Brussels Sprouts, Bacon and Shallots ($12.00) is perfectly prepared – which is to say neither underdone nor cooked into a pale mush – with the bacon and shallots contributing immensely in the taste and texture department… the Au Gratin Cheddar Potatoes ($11.00) are delightfully creamy and totally irresistible… ditto the Truffled Macaroni and Cheese ($13.00)… and over-the-top Butter Poached Lobster Mashed Potatoes ($18.00).
Desserts, which the menu notes are made fresh daily in Eddie V’s kitchen, are something of a mixed bag and, in my opinion, the restaurant’s weakest point. If you’re interested in a floor show, you might try the Bananas Foster Butter Cake ($13.00), which is flambéed tableside. On the other hand, if it’s sweetness you crave, there’s always either the Hot Chocolate Godiva Cake ($12.00) or the Dark Chocolate and Crushed Toffee S’Mores ($11.00)… But if you’re looking for something that’s kind of middle-of-the-road, as I was – not too showy, not too sweet – the Peach Cobbler (pictured) sounded just perfect. Unfortunately, the peach slices exhibited a rather strange texture and were absolutely flavorless… My advice dessert-wise is to keep it simple; stick with either the Fresh Seasonal Berries ($11.00) or the Sorbet and Ice Cream ($10.00), both served with the chef’s cookies.
Wine prices, as you would surmise, correspond to the cost of the cuisine; which means, of course, that a glass or bottle of vino will cost you dearly. Take the 2015 J.J. Vincent Bourgogne Blanc, for instance. This is a very nice French Chardonnay made from grapes grown in the Mâcon region. It is also listed as a “Best Buy” by Wine & Spirits magazine, as the average retail price is about $18.00 a bottle, although I’ve seen it on sale for as low as $14.00. Eddie V’s sells it for a whopping $18.00 per glass/$72.00 per bottle! One thing is certain… you don’t have to be a math major to realize you’re being royally ripped off.
Speaking of… If you order a steak at Eddie V’s, that is precisely what you get. One steak. Naked. Sitting on a plain white plate. Not only are the accompaniments served à la carte, but the sauces as well. So, if you want a sauce on that steak – Tarragon Béarnaise… Cognac Peppercorn Crème…Classic Hollandaise… or Blue Cheese Fondue – it will cost you $4.00 per. Talk about pushing the envelope.
But let’s do a bit of comparison shopping… Jean-Georges, from internationally acclaimed chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten, recently made its debut in the Comcast Technology Center at 1 North 19th Street in Philadelphia. While Mr. Vongerichten’s prices are not as elevated as those at his New York City flagship, as you would expect, they are still formidable. And yet… amazingly… Eddie V’s prices are comparable and, in numerous instances, even more expensive. Totally mind-boggling.
Without doubt, when it comes to judging steakhouse restaurants, foodwise, Eddie V’s is clearly at the top of the heap. But… bear in mind that you are paying fine dining prices for chain steakhouse fare – as good as it may be – and atmosphere. And ambiance plays a rather important role here. When the main dining area is filled, which appears to be most of the time, it is pure bedlam. The decibel level may only be described as lethal.
By way of contrast, recently, our party of five lunched at the new Jean-Georges in Philadelphia. Apart from the cuisine, which is incomparable (I’ll be posting a complete review at a later date), the setting is spatially stunning; yet, at the same time, simply appointed and sedate. And because of the incredibly high ceiling, the noise level is minimal. Among other things, the restaurant also features spectacular views of the City of Brotherly Love from its 59th-floor location in the Four Seasons Hotel. Eddie V’s, on the other hand, boasts a breathtaking view of the glass-enclosed kitchen.
Are comparisons of this nature an exercise in futility…? Perhaps. But when you consider that you may enjoy a fine dining experience at a restaurant the caliber of Jean-Georges for approximately the same amount you would spend at a chain steakhouse, it makes Eddie V’s prices appear all the more outrageous.
I know where I’d prefer to spend my money… On the other hand, it’s your call.
Bon Appétit!
TAD
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