Rieslings of Summer – A Review

Riesling has long been acknowledged as the world’s finest grape variety for white wines. It is a native of Germany, where it’s believed to have been cultivated for at least 500 years, possibly as long as 2,000 years. It is a grape that simultaneously produces the most refreshing and the most complex wines. At their best, Riesling wines are both crisp and juicy, flowery and minerally, a miraculous collusion of lightness and intensity.

However, while fine Riesling wines from the more than twenty countries where the variety is grown on a commercial scale all bear the Riesling hallmarks of vibrant fruitiness and elegance, they appear in a remarkably wide variety of styles. The other noble white-wine grape varieties produce great wines in only one or two styles… but fine Riesling wines cover the entire spectrum of tastes – from ultra-light, bone-dry whites to some of the richest dessert wines in the world. In Germany, these sweet wines, which are usually affected by Botrytis cinerea (a beneficial form of grey fungus, also called “noble” rot), are graded in ascending order or sweetness as auslese, beerenauslese, and trockenbeerenauslese.

There are also extensive Riesling plantings in California, where early wines were made in a dry but oaky style. California winemakers now produce high-quality, German-style Rieslings that are lighter, more delicate, and slightly to medium sweet. Other states that have had success with Riesling wines include Oregon, Washington, and New York. Australia has extensive plantings of the grape and produces high-quality Riesling wines, particularly from the Eden and Clare Valleys. France’s Alsace region and Italy’s Alto Adige also produce excellent Rieslings.

A century ago, the finest Riesling wines from Germany’s Rhine and Mosel valleys were the most expensive and renowned wines produced anywhere in the world. Their prices at auction and on British merchants’ lists regularly exceeded those of even the finest Bordeaux wines. Unfortunately, Riesling’s reputation has suffered major setbacks. In part, this is due to the current popularity of Chardonnay, wines that tend to have a high alcoholic content and usually smell and taste of the new oak barrels in which they are made. Riesling wines, on the other hand, are quite different in style, tasting decidedly crisp and clean no matter how rich and powerful they may be.

But the more important cause of Riesling’s declining reputation has undoubtedly been over-commercialization. In California, South Africa, Australia, and Eastern Europe, wines produced from grape varieties either unrelated or only distantly related to true Riesling have been marketed as “Riesling.” These have invariably been cheap, sweet wines with none of the elegance or brilliance of true Riesling wines. In Germany, the names of famous Riesling-producing regions and villages have been used to sell cheap, sweet wines made from inferior grape varieties.

During the past few years, however, Riesling has begun to storm back into fashion among wine producers in Austria, Germany, Washington State, Oregon, Australia, and New Zealand. Demand for Riesling wines has also been increasing in a number of markets around the world, most dramatically in Japan and the Far East. The demand from restaurateurs for light, elegant white wines, combined with increasing appeal of low-alcohol wines, strongly favor the trend to fine Riesling wines.

Riesling’s incredible draw as a wine for the dining table is its crisp, refreshing, palate-cleansing acidity, which cuts the fat in rich cream sauces, meats such as pork and duck, and soft cheeses like Camembert and Brie. Riesling is a wine that pairs remarkable well with all foods; but it is also the perfect companion for quiet quaffing on a warm summer afternoon.

Listed below are a number of recently sampled Rieslings from several diverse regions that may be of interest. Just bear one thing in mind… Unlike Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, which are easily manipulated into a particular style by the winemaker, Riesling wines stubbornly reflect the goût de terroir, the complete natural environment in which they were produced. In other words, don’t expect a Riesling wine produced in Italy or the United States to have the same aromatic and/or flavor characteristics as one produced in Germany or Alsace. Each wine will be unique based upon the individual region’s soil, topography, and climate. As wine writer Stuart Pigott notes: “(Riesling wines) are a bastion of individuality and regional integrity in a wine world where technology, fashion, and modern marketing are tending to standardize the pleasure of wine drinking.

 

GERMANY: Many would argue – and rightly so, I believe – that Riesling finds its finest expression on the steep banks of the Mosel River and its Saar and Ruwer tributaries. The incomparable 30% gradient attracts maximum ripening sunlight, both directly and via reflection from the river’s surface. And the easily warmed slate soils, typical of this region, can also help late season ripening. The result is wines unique in the world for their combination of low alcohol, striking aroma, high extract, and delicacy of texture.

The 2011 Immich-Batterieberg Enkircher “Batterieberg” Riesling ($25.92 – $32.99) hails from the “Battered Mountain,” a steeply terraced vineyard in the Mosel Valley. It was produced from 60-year-old vines planted on grey slate soils rife with quartz. Barrel fermented with native yeasts, the 2011 is an intense, mineral-driven wine with a light petrol nose – a good deal lighter than you would expect from this vintage – and hints of pear on the palate. Crisp and quite potent, this wine will age gracefully and continue to evolve over the next 25 years.

The 2015 St.-Urbans-Hof “Ockfener Bockstein” Riesling Kabinett ($22.99) introduces a touch of sweetness into the equation. The bouquet is ripe with floral and herbal aromas. On the palate, Robert Parker, describes this wine as “sweet and racy-piquant.” More the latter rather than the former, in my opinion. The finish is elegantly lush with an intense minerality. If you enjoy Rieslings with a bit of off-dry stimulation, this wine should be much to your liking.

 

ALSACE, FRANCE: Alsace is situated in the northeast corner of France, bordered on the west by the Vosges Mountains and on the east by the Rhine River, which separates it from Germany. The shared history between France and Germany has created a unique approach to the styles of Alsatian wines and cuisine. With vineyards surrounding the picturesque hamlet of Ribeauvillé, the Trimbach family has been promoting the history, exceptional terroirs, and wines of Alsace since 1626. Across 13 generations, the family has always produced wines that are structured, long-lived, fruity, elegant, and beautifully balanced. And the 2013 Trimbach Riesling ($17.99) is certainly no exception. This quintessential Alsace Riesling is delightfully taut on the palate with sparks of lemon and peach leading to a clean and dry finish. If you can’t find the 2013, bear in mind that the 2014 and 2015 vintages are equally highly rated.

 

ALTO ADIGE, ITALY: Alto Adige – or Südtirol to the German-speaking two-thirds of its inhabitants – is located in northeast Italy, bordered by Lombardy on the west, Veneto on the east, and Austria on the north. Situated in the sleepy village of Novacella in the Isarco River Valley, Abbazia was founded in 1142 by Augustinian Order of Canons Regular. The Augustians are not monks in the familiar sense. Although they have taken vows of poverty, chastity and obedience to their superiors, they also work to support themselves as a part of their community. The abbey not only grows grapes for winemaking, but also farms fruits and vegetables; and there is a small school devoted primarily to the study of viticulture.

The abbey’s reputation as a winery is exceptional and international. In 2009, for example, Gambero Rosso, Italy’s influential food and wine magazine, named Celestino Lucin, the abbey’s enologist, Winemaker of the Year. The estate has long been known for producing world class white wines with an excellent price/quality ratio. The soil surrounding Abbazia di Novacella is mainly granitic schist, created by ancient glaciers; and the vineyards are quite steep. In the Isarco Valley, vines do not live much longer than 30 years, and the yields are naturally small, producing wines that are aromatic and quite rich as well as refreshingly crisp. And the 2015 Abbazia di Novacella Riesling ($19.99) is a delicious case in point. Not nearly as acidic as other Rieslings I’ve encountered, the 2015 exhibits definitive floral notes on the palate and boasts a hefty – for a Riesling – 13.5% alcohol. All the elements are well integrated, however, and the finish is long and satisfying. For something a bit different, this Italian Riesling is certainly worth a try.

 

WASHINGTON STATE: As one wine writer put it: “When Charles Smith makes a move… the earth moves.” And in October 2016, the Washington State wine industry recorded an 8.9 on the oenological Richter Scale when the maverick winemaker sold his eponymous wine brand to mega-giant Constellation Brands for a cool $120 million. The deal features what Mr. Smith calls “the five core brands” of his company – Kung Fu Girl Riesling, Eve Chardonnay, Boom Boom Syrah, Velvet Devil Merlot and Chateau Smith Cabernet Sauvignon.

These wines were originally created as separate brands, beginning with Kung Fu Girl in the 2006 vintage. The others were added in 2007. The Riesling, the largest volume of the portfolio, reached 198,000 cases in 2014. Velvet Devil stands next with 150,000 cases and Boom Boom Syrah at 42,000. Altogether, the brands add up to nearly 500,000 cases per year.

And don’t be fooled by the off-the-wall wine names, as the Wine Spectator scores for these modestly priced little beauties have ranged from 87 to 91 points (100-point scale) in recent years… A self-taught winemaker, Mr. Smith is a true artisan and pioneer in the wine world. In 2008, his winery was recognized by Wine & Spirits magazine as one of the “Best New Wineries of the Last Ten Years” and as “Winery of the Year” in their annual buying guide. In 2009, Food & Wine magazine awarded Mr. Smith “Winemaker of the Year”; in 2010, Seattle Magazine named him their “Winemaker of the Year”; and, in 2014, Wine Enthusiast also named him “Winemaker of the Year.”

So let’s take the 2015 Kung Fu Girl Riesling ($9.99) as Exhibit A… This wine was named number 45 in the Wine Spectator Top 100 of 2016. “Yet another terrific vintage,” the Spectator gushed. “Pure, focused and mouthwatering.” Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate added: “Juicy and lively, with lots of citrus blossom, lychee and a touch of lime, the 2015 Riesling Kung Fu Girl is medium-bodied, vibrant and crisp on the palate, with terrific purity, integrated acidity and a great finish. It’s a steal at the price.” The Wine Enthusiast called it “an über-aromatic wine” and named it a “best buy.” The bottom line: A fabulous wine… at an equally fabulous price.* Drink up!

*All prices – but of course – are subject to change.

Cheers!

TAD