The Bloody Mary Book – A Review

The Bloody Mary Book: Reinventing a Classic Cocktail

Ellen Brown (Philadelphia: Running Press, 2017, 162 Pages)

I love Bloody Marys… but, like many people, I just never seem to get around to drinking one. Part of the reason for this, of course, is the reticence to order a cocktail that enjoys a somewhat negative reputation as a remedy for a hangover. Then there’s the fact that this rather old-fashioned classic cocktail simply lacks the sophisticated image of the current wave of au courant designer martinis. No, the Bloody is more of a “rough ‘n’ ready” kind of concoction that never quite fit in as the preprandial libation of choice.

But while the Bloody Mary failed to catch on with the cultivated dinner-set, it has become an undeniable hit at the brunch table. As author Ellen Brown relates: “A plate of eggs Benedict topped with a rich hollandaise sauce, crêpes stuffed with shrimp curry, or a Western omelet dotted with bits of ham, onion, and bell pepper go with a Bloody Mary the way rack of lamb pairs with an aged Bordeaux.”

Ms. Brown, the founding food editor of USA Today, and the author of more than 35 cookbooks, asserts that there is a type of culinary artistry that goes into the making of a world-class Bloody Mary. “Bloody Marys,” she says, “require a recipe. A description is hardly sufficient… A great Bloody Mary has a distinctive flavor profile; there are layers upon layers of flavors that play off of each other and build to a crescendo of happiness. The drink is balanced like a masterful sauce.”

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So following a brief chapter on history, legend, and lore – most food & drink historians hold that the Bloody Mary was invented in the early 1920s by Fernand “Pete” Petiot, bartender at Harry’s New York Bar, 5 rue Danou in Paris – the author moves on to discuss those spicy, salty, tangy and complex elements, including a recipe for homemade cooked tomato juice… But take heart. If you have neither the time nor the inclination to make your own Bloody Mary mix, she also recommends several bottled mixes that may come to your rescue. In addition, there are suggestions for Bloody Mary rim mixes, doctoring ice cubes, and recommendations for appropriate glassware.

The recipes in chapters three and four are really where the action is (including easy-to-prepare recipes for bar snacks). Recipes in chapter three, “Variations on the Classic,” will seem familiar, as all are tomato-based; but the other ingredients are drawn from exotic cuisines from around the globe, as well as several American riffs. The Ballpark Bloody, for example, throws mustard and relish into the Bloody Mary mix and also includes a sausage for garnish. The Bloody Maja echoes a Scandinavian theme, substituting Aquavit for vodka, adding fennel & caraway seeds, and garnishing with pinwheels of smoked salmon. The Korean Cocktail incorporates kimchi; and Sake to Me adds items like soy sauce, pickled ginger, rice vinegar, and junmai sake rather than vodka.

The recipes in chapter four’s “Contemporary Concoctions” headline drinks that, while exhibiting the flavor characteristics of a typical Bloody Mary, have a look all their own; in many cases, incorporating a variety of South American spirits rather than vodka. The Tomatillo Treat, for instance, combines tart and tangy tomatillos with lime juice, cilantro and chilies with tequila, pisco (amber colored brandy), or cachaça (fermented and distilled sugarcane juice). The Tropical Tango companions puréed mangos with orange juice, scallions, grapefruit juice, vinegar, chilies, garlic, ginger, bell pepper, and cucumber with tequila, light rum, pisco, or cachaça. And the Avocado Cooler picks up an infusion of spice from fresh chilies and wasabi powder and a hint of sweetness from puréed green grapes. As you have undoubtedly surmised, these Bloody Mary taste-alikes are definitely for those who may be feeling particularly adventurous of palate at the moment.

The book’s final chapter, “It’s All About the Garnishes,” is infinitely more complex than merely dropping in a celery stalk. Flavor compatibility, notes Ms. Brown, is the key. Depending upon the Bloody’s overtones – savory, salty, sour, or spicy – you want to tie in the most companionable garnish.

And there are a slew of possibilities from which to choose. The author divides them into several categories: Basic Vegetables & Herbs (Raw and Ready to Go or Cooked); Fruits (Lemons & Limes Reign Supreme); Meats; Cheeses; and Fish & Shellfish. The sky, or so it seems, is the limit.

Then, finally, there’s the matter of placement – vertical, horizontal, or on the rim – and a number of important “Presentation Pointers.” Bet you never realized building a Bloody Mary could be so bloody complicated… or so much bloody fun.

As you can probably sense, I thoroughly enjoyed The Bloody Mary Book… It’s a fascinating & fun read filled with some marvelous ideas and suggestions. If you happen to be a fan of this classic cocktail, you’ll have a ball experimenting. The book is available online at amazon.com and from Barnes & Noble. Cheers!

Bon Appétit!

TAD