Silvio Jermann (pronounced Yer-mann) doesn’t look like a revolutionary. More like a scholarly university professor. Nothing about him is aggressive or flamboyant… And yet, in the early 1970s, this eccentric, gifted winemaker initiated a revolution in Italian winemaking. It took place in Friuli, in the extreme northeastern corner of Italy, next door to Slovenia. Mr. Jermann, educated in two of the country’s renowned wine academies, defied the practice of making dull, uninspiring wines, and was among the first to introduce stainless steel tanks in Italy. For the first time since 1881, when his great-grandfather moved from Austria to Friuli and founded the winery, the cleanliness and control afforded by stainless steel tanks allowed Silvio to make a totally different breed of white wine; to this day, considered by many the finest in Italy.
Jermann’s Vintage Tuinina, for example, is one of the iconic, legendary white wines of Italy. Debuting in 1975, it is often referred to as the first Italian “Super Friulian,” in the same sense that “Super Tuscan” reds broke tradition and combined multiple grape varietals into successful blends. The 2013 Vintage Tunina is an incredible combo of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Ribolla Gialla, Malvasia Istriana, and Picolit. Ripe, intense and full-bodied, the wine still remains bright and refreshing. Its grapefruit and lime flavors weave together in a seamlessly creamy texture that seems to dance on the palate. Wine critic James Suckling bestowed 93 points (100-point scale), while 91 points were added by the Wine Spectator and Wine & Spirits, respectively. Priced at around the $60.00 mark, the 2013 Vintage Tunina should enjoy a cellar life of 7 – 10 years.
The 2013 Jermann Dreams Chardonnay is even more highly rated. Critic James Suckling bestowed a whopping 95 points and raved: “This is a rockin’ chardonnay that resonates with the best of the world.” If you’re not too wild about the $80.00 price tag, take heart, as the 2014 Jermann Chardonnay is about half the price and nearly the equal of its more expensive sibling.
Low man on the totem pole, at least monetarily speaking, is the 2014 Jermann Pinot Grigio. I’ve seen it on sale for as low $14.99. But don’t let that paltry price fool you, as it’s really one of the best Italian whites around. Crisp and clean on the palate, this wine offers up racy lemon and lime, as well as a surprisingly robust complexity. A very nice wine at an even nicer price. Great for summertime quaffing – even better with your cuisine of choice.
Although Jermann is known for its white wines, the winery also produces several red varietals that are certain to be of interest. The first is the highly descriptive 2012 Jermann Red Angel on the Moonlight. This is a Pinot Noir, or Pinot Nero as it is known in Italy, that has been aged for 12 months in small French oak barrels. The color is a fine ruby red; the nose a touch herbaceous. As you would expect, on the palate this Pinot Noir is quite elegant, silky and smooth. The Wine Spectator bestowed 89 points (100 point scale) and noted its ripe black cherry & red licorice flavors and fine light tannins.
But the best part about Red Angel on the Moonlight may very well be the price tag. This wine normally retails in the $35.00 – $40.00 range. Pennsylvania State Stores, however, have it listed as a “Chairman’s Selection,” which, of course, is good news for wine hounds. It is currently on sale for $15.92, and seems to be readily available at a number of outlets in our area.
The second red wine of note is the 2012 Jermann Blau & Blau. The name is derived from Blaufränkisch (Franconia) and Blauburgunder (Pinot Nero/Noir) grapes. Blaufränkisch is a dark-skinned grape used for red wine. A late-ripening variety, it produces red wines that are typically rich in tannin and exhibit a pronounced spicy character. It has been called the “Pinot Noir of the East” because of its spread and reputation in Eastern Europe. In America, this grape is grown in Idaho, Washington State, and the Finger Lakes region of New York.
Aged for 16 months in small barrels of French oak, the 2012 Blau & Blau is a blend of 95% Blaufränkisch and 5% Blauburgunder. The ruby red color is intense and the aroma heady and quite herbaceous. The wine is more full-bodied than the aforementioned Angel on the Moonlight, yet it is dry, elegant and well balanced.
The 2012 Jermann Blau & Blau will be difficult to find locally… However, it is available online (do a Google search) around the $45.00 mark. If you’re a Pinot Noir fan, as I am, this one is definitely worth tracking down.
Cheers!
TAD
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