Feby’s Fishery
3701 Lancaster Pike
Wilmington, Delaware
(302) 998-9501
Originally founded by Phillip & Mary Sue DiFebo in 1974, Feby’s began as a humble locally sourced fishery located on New Road in Elsmere, Delaware. Ten years later, the couple expanded their operation, opening both a seafood market and restaurant at their present location on Lancaster Pike in Wilmington.
Over the past forty years, Feby’s has developed quite a following; and its loyal patrons come streaming through the door in droves – especially on Monday & Wednesday nights when the restaurant features 1¼ pound lobsters (with two sides) for $19.99; and Thursday, when the draw is all you can eat Dungeness crab (also with two sides) for $39.99… And this is a diverse crowd. You see couples of every age, size, and persuasion; groups & families large and small; and children conspicuous by their presence.
So as you may have surmised, if you’re in search of a romantic evening, you’d do well to seek a more sedate venue. The décor of the dining area, adjoining diminutive bar, and banquet facilities border on the utilitarian; and when the restaurant is full & overflowing – which seems to be most of the time – noise rockets off the hard surfaces, sending the decibel level soaring.
But forget ambiance; people come here for seafood that’s pristinely fresh, carefully prepared, attractively presented, and generously proportioned… And, for the most part, the kitchen is right on the money. If you happen to make it to happy hour (at the bar only, Monday – Friday, 3:30 p.m. – 5:30 p.m.), for example, you’ll be treated to a variety of specially priced munchies, discounted brews, and $6.50 house wines by the glass. Food-wise, be sure to sample the Deep Fried Rockfish Fingers. The breading is light and crunchy; the fish moist and succulent; and the sweet bourbon teriyaki sauce a show stopping accompaniment.
As you move on to the dining area, starters include many of the usual suspects – Shrimp Cocktail, Calamari, Oysters Rockefeller, etc. But my dining partner and I decided to share the Roasted Beet & Arugula Salad. Generous to a fault, and more than suitable for sharing, baby arugula is combined with slices of roasted red beet, red onions, grape tomato halves, sprinkling of pine nuts, and crumbled feta cheese. A drizzle of white balsamic vinaigrette proves the perfect gastronomic gestalt.
Regular entrées include items like Crab Imperial, Cioppino, Maryland Style Crab Cakes, Lobster, and Surf & Turf. Filet Mignon, Bistro Steak, and Lamb Chops are also present and accounted for. Which leads me to an article I recently stumbled upon: “How to Order Steak in a Seafood Restaurant.” And the author quickly reminds the reader that his title is a trick question… to which the answer is: don’t. And I agree – in the strongest possible terms. Anyone who orders steak (or lamb or chicken) in a restaurant that specializes in seafood is asking for disappointment.
Go with what the establishment does best – in Feby’s case, the Daily Fin Fish – and the odds of success are stacked heavily in your favor. The fish noted on the menu range alphabetically from Bluefish to Wild King Salmon and may be prepared baked, broiled, grilled, pan-seared, or blackened. Diners may also add a specialty sauce or 4 ounces of jumbo lump or crab imperial for an additional charge. As a general rule of thumb, however, finny fare is best served by those accoutrements that intrude the least.
My halibut, for example, was beautifully pan-seared and sided with a seasonal vegetable medley and coleslaw. The fish itself was pure white (rather than translucent), perfectly textured, and rife with its own natural flavor. Seldom have I tasted a halibut filet that was so simply but exquisitely prepared. A testimony to the prowess of the kitchen.
My dining partner’s Red Snapper, was a bit more gussied up but still right on target. Perfectly grilled, it was placed on a rice pilaf, sprinkled with crabmeat, and topped with asparagus spears. Another winner.
The only downer of the evening proved to be the Key Lime Pie, which was distinguished by a soggy crust and little in the way of flavor. The coffee, however, wasn’t bad.
Dessert disappointment notwithstanding, Feby’s Fishery offers up some of the best seafood I’ve sampled in a good long time. Highly recommended.
Bon Appétit!
TAD
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