Perusing the December editions of both the Wine Spectator and the Wine Enthusiast, I couldn’t help but notice that bubbly is big during the holiday season. Reviews/recommendations of Champagne and other sparkling wines were very much in evidence; undoubtedly because Champagne has always been the wine of choice to welcome in the New Year.
However, should you be planning a holiday dinner for family and/or friends and are searching for an appropriate aperitif, you might forego the usual bubbly and consider serving your guests a dry sherry to stimulate their appetites. Sherry, a fortified wine that takes its name from the town of Jerez in the province of Cádiz in Andalucía in the south of Spain, comes in a broad range of styles, from bone dry to exceedingly sweet.
As a prelude to a holiday meal, perhaps to accompany a variety of hors d’oeuvres, you will want to serve a fino sherry, which is pale in color, light, dry, crisp & clean on the palate, and fortified to 15% alcohol. It should be served cool, around 45 degrees, and is best appreciated in good wineglasses rather than the small copitas sometimes found in Spanish restaurants. Just one word of caution: Although fino is fortified, it should be consumed young, as it tends to lose its freshness progressively once bottled… And, after opening, fino should be kept refrigerated and consumed within a week.
The following sherries are highly recommended: Valdespino Inocente Fino Sherry, 375 ml., $12.00… El Maestro Sierra Fino Sherry, 375 ml., $18.00… Gonzalez Byass Tío Pepe Fino Sherry, 750 ml., $16.00… Bodegas Grant La Garrocha Fino Sherry, 375 ml., $12.00. The first three recommendations should be easy enough to find at Total Wine or other retailers. La Garrocha, on the other hand, is available through the Pennsylvania LCB outlets.
As you settle in at your holiday table, here are a few suggestions that may match up quite well with whatever entrée(s) you may have in mind…
WHITE WINES:
2013 Château Génot-Boulanger Meursault-Bouchères (Burgundy, France): When it comes to Chardonnay, I have always been partial to Meursault, much preferring its delicate embraces to the gung-ho assault of its often ponderous oaky California cousins. And the 2013 Meursault-Bouchères is simply a fabulous white Burgundy. Recently receiving 95 points from the Wine Spectator, this is a lush wine, full-bodied but not at all heavy on the palate. An elegant effort, the 2013 seduces you with its remarkable subtleties, not its power. It is finesse personified. Needless to say, a wine of this stature is not inexpensive; it retails around the $100.00 mark. However, if you appreciate Chardonnay at its very best, trust me, you will not be disappointed.
2013 Château Montelena Chardonnay (Napa Valley, California): If you’re looking for a California Chardonnay that tastes more like a French white Burgundy, Château Montelena is the perfect choice. It is marvelously focused, intense, and beautifully balanced. Lusciously rich, it beguiles the palate with hints of apple and ever-so-subtle shadings of sweet oak. By the way, the 1973 Château Montelena is the Chardonnay that won first place in the white wine section of the historic “Judgment of Paris” wine event, besting nine other wines from France and California under a blind tasting. Forty years, later, Château Montelena remains one of the very best Chardonnays you can buy. Given its impeccable quality, it is something of a steal for around the $50.00 mark (but I’ve seen it online for as low as $35.00).
Among other white wine possibilities, if Riesling is a favorite, I would definitely go with the excellent 2013 Schloss Schönborn Estate (Dry) Riesling from Germany’s Rheingau region, which I also recommended for Thanksgiving. This is a marvelous wine at a marvelous price, $15.99 at Pa State Stores. From the Alsatian region of France, Trimbach puts out an excellent entry level Riesling year after year. Both the 2012 and the 2013 are highly rated and retail around the $20.00 mark.
If you’d prefer Pinot Grigio (Gris), Jermann in the Friuli-Venezia Giulia region of Italy is known for its excellent full-bodied Pinot Grigios, which retail in the $15.00 – $25.00 range. An even better bargain is Oregon’s 2015 Acrobat Pinot Gris. Produced by King Estate, this wine placed first in the Wine Enthusiast’s “Top 100 Best Buys of 2016” and goes for a mere $13.99 per bottle.
RED WINES:
2011 Concha y Toro Don Melchor Cabernet Sauvignon (Chile): The 2010 Don Melchor was nothing short of phenomenal (I still have six bottles in the cellar!)… As one wine writer put it, the texture was like having your tongue massaged with a velvet swatch. That being said, however, the 2011 is even better. As Wilfred Wong of Wine.com noted: “The 2011 Concha y Toro Don Melchor is a super, world-class wine that exceeds many of the best from around the globe.” Goes for about $100.00 a bottle; but, trust me, it’s worth the splurge. The perfect complement to your holiday feast.
2014 Caymus Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon (California): The 2012 Caymus 40th Anniversary Cabernet Sauvignon was a wine of incredible depth and beauty. Unfortunately, once wine guru Robert Parker bested 96 points on this seductive vintage it became increasing difficult to lay your hands – now it is impossible. The good news, however, is that the Caymus’ 2014 Cab is readily available and marvelously rewarding. If you enjoy big, bold Cabernets, this one’s for you. Another outstanding addition to your holiday table. Retails around the $75.00 mark.
2011 Feudo Montoni Nero d’Avola Vrucara (Sicily): I have always been a fan of Nero d’Avola, a red wine grape indigenous to Sicily. Like Cabernet & Syrah, wines produced from Nero d’Avola tend to be rather bold and full-bodied. The 2011 is sourced from wines that average 95 years of age, producing a wine of great complexity, fabulous deep fruit flavors, and a fine, long finish. Robert Parker bestowed a whopping 95 points, noting: “You rarely see this level of complexity with Nero d’Avola. I love everything about this beautiful wine.” Definitely a wine worth seeking out. Goes for around $30.00 – $35.00.
2013 Newton Red Label Claret (California): Claret is the English term for red wines from the Bordeaux district of France. And, like red Bordeaux, this Claret is a blend of several grapes, most notably 74% Merlot & 16% Cabernet Sauvignon accompanied by several other single digit varietals. Aromas of ripe fruit, vanilla, and spice waft from the glass; while hints of cedar and spice dominate the palate. This isn’t a blockbuster by any stretch of the imagination… but it is a good solid wine that will make a most suitable companion for a variety of beef and lamb dishes on your holiday table. And the price isn’t bad either, as it generally retails around the $20.00 mark.
Cheers and Happy Holidays
TAD
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