With the coming of spring and summer, a young man’s heart may very well turn to baseball… But an oenophile’s heart generally turns to white wines rather than reds; wines that are perfectly suited to lighter cuisines and warm weather imbibing. Listed below are several white wines I’ve recently tasted. As you will undoubtedly notice, I have skipped the usual round-up of California Chardonnays and Sauvignon Blancs in favor of what I consider more interesting, food-friendly varietals. Several of the grapes may be unfamiliar, but they are all of excellent quality and reasonably priced. Once again, please note that prices are approximate. And while many of these wines may be found at various retail stores, googling may yield significant bargains.
France: Domaine de la Garrigue Vacqueyras Blanc, 2012 – Hailing from the Southern Rhone, this white Vacqueyras is a traditional blend of 60% Clairette and 40% Grenache Blanc. The nose is rife with citrus, apple & melon; and the palate is marvelously rich without being flabby. Plenty of minerality here as well, which leads to a crisp, clean finish. Like all great Rhone white wines, Vacqueyras can be a bit on the pricey side. In fact, this vintage’s original price hovered around the $30.00 mark. Do a little surfing, though, and you can pick it up, as I did, for a mere $12.99 (plus shipping).
Greece: Boutari Moschofilero, 2014 – If you’re in search of a light, refreshing wine that’s equally light on your pocketbook, you can’t miss with the 2014 Boutari. Moschofilero grapes, which feature a pink/purple skin, slightly spicy flavor & excellent acidity, are indigenous to Greece and grown in vineyards in the Maninia region of the Peloponnese at an altitude of 2,100 feet. The result is a crisp, well-balanced wine with intense flavor and long aromatic citrus (predominately grapefruit) aftertaste. Great for quaffing solo, or as a complement to a wide variety of cuisines. And the price…? I picked up 6 bottles online for a mere $12.00 per. An excellent wine… and a bargain hunter’s dream.
Italy: Jermann Pinot Grigio, 2015 – Silvio Jermann enjoys the well-deserved reputation of making some of Italy’s best white wines. His range of vintages, which come from the predominantly mountainous Friuli-Venezia Giulia region in the northeast corner of Italy, are consistently of superb quality… And his 2015 Pinot Grigio is a delicious case in point. It is round and exceedingly well-balanced on the palate, yet possesses a refreshing minerality and impressive depth of flavor. Some may consider it rather pricey – around $30.00 a bottle – given the remarkable quality, however, it is well worth the expenditure.
Italy: Elena Walch Vigna Castel Ringberg Pinot Grigio, 2015 – Bordering Austria and Switzerland in the Italian Alps – the Alto Adige region is Italy’s northernmost wine-producing region. The Pinot Grigios from this area rank among the best in Italy – and Elena Walch’s Castel Ringberg is one of the most sought after. The 2015 is deliciously full bodied on the palate, offering up a sparkling acidity to complement its delightfully creamy flavors. A bargain at around $25.00 per bottle.
Spain: As Laxas Albariño, 2014 – Albariño is a white wine grape grown predominately in northwest Spain and Portugal, where it is known as Alvarinho. As Laxas is a top-of-the-line Albariño producer located in the Rias Baixas district of Spain; and the 2015 vintage is certainly one of the Winery’s best efforts. It was awarded 92 points (100-point scale) and an “Editors’ Choice” designation from the Wine Enthusiast. Elegant and long and stony on the finish, the 2014 As Laxas Albariño is a personal fave. It ranges in price from $15.00 to $22.00.
If you prefer Rosé, you may wish to check out these vintages recently recommended by the Wine Enthusiast: Austria: Umathum Rosa (Burgenland), 2015, Wine Enthusiast “Editors’ Choice,” $22.00… France (Rhone): Domaine des Carteresses Tavel, 2015, $18.00… Germany (Pfalz): Villa Wolf Pinot Noir Rosé, 2014, $12.00… Italy: Le Fraghe Ròdon Bardolino Chiaretto, 2015, Wine Enthusiast “Editors’ Choice,” $16.00… Spain: Marqué de Cáceres Rosado (Rioja), 2015, $11.00… United States, California: Margerum Riviera Rosé (Central Coast), 2015, $21.00.
On the other hand, if you’re feeling particularly flush and are searching for the perfect white wine to impress the pants off your guests at a lavish summer dinner party, I have just the ticket: the 2013 Château Génot-Boulanger Meursault-Bouchères.
Meursault wine is produced in the commune of Meursault in Côte de Beaune of Burgundy. The Appellation d’Origine Controlee (AOC) Meursault may be used for white wine and red, respectively, with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir as the main grape varieties. The production of white Meursault dominates with around 98%. There are no Grand Cru vineyards within Meursault, but several highly regarded Premier Cru vineyards, among them Les Bouchères.
The Château Génot-Boulanger is a family estate presided over by Aude and Guillaume Lavollé, 4th generation vignerons. The Château produces 30 different appellations, including 3 Grand Crus and 13 Premier Crus, half in Chardonnay and half in Pinot Noir. The Winery began working with organic farming in 2008 and received its certification in 2012.
I have always been partial to Meursault, much preferring its delicate embraces to the gung-ho assaults of its ponderously oaky California cousins. And the 2013 Meursault-Bouchères is simply a fabulous Chardonnay. It was recently rated 95 (100-point scale) in the June 15, 2016, issue of the Wine Spectator – and with good reason. This is a lush wine, full-bodied but not at all heavy on the palate, rife with peach, apple, and light toast backed by a marvelously vibrant acidity. An elegant effort, the 2013 seduces you with its remarkable subtleties, not its power. It is, in a word, finesse personified.
Needless to say, wines of this stature are not inexpensive. The 2013 Château Génot-Boulanger Meursault-Bouchères, for example, retails around the $100.00 mark. The lowest price I’ve found online is $94.00 at Gary’s Wine & Marketplace – www.garyswine.com – located in New Jersey. Given its superb quality, however, and the fact that several top-of-the-line white Burgundies can fetch upwards of a thousand dollars a bottle, this Meursault is a relative bargain. If you appreciate Chardonnay at its very best, this wine is definitely worth the expenditure. Trust me, you will not be disappointed.
Cheers!
TAD
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