“Sicily has always been a prodigious fount of wine,” notes Eric Asimov of the New York Times… Unfortunately, this was part of the problem. The wines that were produced were cheap and eminently forgettable: ponderous reds, insipid whites, and a host of sweet wines that never quite delivered the goods.
But how things have changed. Sicily is now one of the most exciting wine regions in the world. The reason for this dramatic turn-around is two-fold: a new and energetic generation of wine producers; and, secondly, a shift in wine preferences in the United States. There has been a rather dramatic pendulum swing from so-called power wines to lighter varietals with greater finesse. And this certainly played to the strength of Sicily’s new-wave wines.
Planeta is clearly on the cutting edge of a new generation of forward-thinking, innovative Sicilian wine producers. But while the Planeta family has owned a wine estate since the 1600s, it wasn’t until the mid-1980s that Francesca Planeta and her cousins, Alessio and Santi, created Planeta wines as they are known today. Alessio is the winemaker, with Santi and Francesca handling marketing within Italy and around the world, respectively.
The trio has spent years matching the extraordinarily diverse Sicilian soils at their five wineries – Sambuca di Sicilia, Noto, Vittoria, Menfi, and Etna – with both indigenous and international grape varieties. The result is an impressive array of critically-acclaimed wines that demonstrate how brilliance may be attained through the thoughtful marriage of grape variety and terroir.
Planeta is currently producing a prodigious number of wines, both from indigenous and international varietals, with at least ten Planeta wines being imported into the United States.
The crème de la crème, in my opinion, are the wines produced from Nero d’Avola, the most important red wine grape in Sicily and one that has been cultivated and used for wine production on the island for centuries. The Nero d’Avola is often compared to Australian Shiraz, as it also has a distinctively peppery and spicy character. But it also exhibits rich flavors of plum and other dark fruits, making it the perfect grape for producing interesting and complex wines.
I’ve sampled two of Planeta’s Nero d’Avola offerings, and both are excellent. The first is the winery’s 2010 Santa Cecilia. This is a vibrant purplish red in the glass, exuding opulent aromas of tangy berry fruit. The wine is elegantly soft on the palate with fine tannins and a beautifully balanced texture. This classic Nero d’Avola retails around the $40.00 mark.
But even better, in my opinion, is the 2012 Noto Nero d’Avola, which received 92 points and an “Editors’ Choice” designation from the Wine Enthusiast. The wine opens with intense aromas of spice and ripe red fruit, then bewitches the palate with silky smooth tannins and hints of cherry, raspberry, and cinnamon. This is simply a fabulous wine and, given its overall quality, something of a steal around the $33.00 mark.
Interestingly enough, however, despite the winery’s phenomenal success with the indigenous Nero D’Avola, Chardonnay, an international varietal, has always been Planeta’s biggest selling wine. The 100% Chardonnay grapes are grown in the Mendi region; and after a 15-day period of fermentation in oak, the wine is aged for less than a year in barrique (also known as Bordeaux) barrels.
I’ve sampled both the 2012 and the 2013; and while the former is more highly rated by the wine gurus, I much prefer the 2013. The first thing you notice about the 2012 is the color; it is – to me, at least – a rather off-putting deep amber. It looks like a wine on the way out. This is a big, rich Chard… and rather “oily” on the palate. Strangely enough, however, flavor seems to be lacking. Conversely, the 2013 exhibits a golden yellow color. On the palate, the wine is rich & intense, yet it still remains fresh, vibrant, and bursting with fruit flavors. Given a choice, I’d go for the 2013 every time. Both retail around the $40.00 mark.
On the other hand, if you’re in the mood for an easy-drinking white wine that won’t break the bank, you must give Planeta’s 2014 La Segreta Bianco a try. Priced between $10.00 and $15.00 – depending upon your retailer – La Segreta is a food-friendly blend of 50% Grecanico, 30% Chardonnay, 10% Viognier, and 10% Fiano. As the warm weather approaches, this is a fun and versatile wine that is the perfect match for seafood dishes, light appetizers, salads, and all types of creative cuisine.
Cheers!
TAD
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