CANTINA FELIZ, 424 South Bethlehem Pike, Fort Washington, Pennsylvania, (215) 646-1320, www.cantinafeliz.com
LA CALACA FELIZ, 2321 Fairmount Avenue, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, (215) 787-9930, www.lacalacafeliz.com
In 2010, Tim Spinner, then the chef de cuisine at José Garces’ highly regarded Distrito in Philadelphia, decided to strike out on his own. Along with partner Brian Sirhal, the Distrito beverage director, he opened the immensely popular Cantina Feliz in Fort Washington. Following this successful debut, the duo then scored a huge critical and commercial coup with La Calaca Feliz in Philly’s Art Museum district… And, in 2013, they kept the good times rolling with Taqueria Feliz in Manayunk.
Mr. Spinner’s culinary approach is contemporary without being convoluted. His innovative touches don’t scream for your attention like riled up strangers; rather, they are enticingly and subtly woven into the fabric of the cuisine itself. There is absolutely no question that this young chef continues to raise the bar with regard to modern Mexican cooking in the Philadelphia area.
However, I do feel there is some truth to the assertion that the menu at the Fort Washington outpost – which appears to be aimed at slightly more conservative suburban palates – is not quite as gastronomically adventurous as its younger Fairmount Avenue sibling. On the other hand, both restaurants do share a number of similar dishes that are equally well prepared.
Take the customary guacamole, for example. In both establishments it is mashed to order with a blending of onion and jalapeño in a lava rock molcajete. Rich and creamy – but with just enough old-fashioned lumps and bumps to maintain a rustic south-of-the-border made-from-scratch integrity– it is a savory delight for the palate.
Continuing on in the traditional vein, the enchiladas – corn tortillas stuffed with cheese and meat, chicken, or seafood, swimming in a variety of rich sauces – are benchmark renditions at both establishments. On a recent visit, brisket was the table favorite, although I preferred the chicken (pictured), a tasty combo of pulled breast meat, salsa ranchera (tomatoes, chilies and spices), rajas (sliced poblano peppers), and an addictively creamy chipotle sauce.
Obligatory variations on the taco theme are equally up to the mark… Possibilities include Baja fish, salmon poke (seared and cubed salmon tossed with a light soy seasoning, sesame, and seaweed), pulled pork, chorizo, chicken, mushroom, and cauliflower. But nothing quite steals the show like La Calaca Feliz’s swordfish tacos (pictured). Lightly grilled swordfish strips are dry-rubbed with Jamaican jerk spice (basically allspice & Scotch bonnet peppers) and served up with ramekins of citrus crema and mango guacamole. A fabulous array of flavors… and just enough heat to keep your palate standing at attention.
Entrées proper are limited – 5 at Cantina Feliz; 4 at La Calaca Feliz – which is always a good sign, as the kitchen doesn’t try to do too much. This also leaves plenty of room for daily specials at the chef’s discretion. The black bass filet with creamy poblano rice studded with crabmeat is a favorite at both restaurants, as is the organic chicken breast with mole poblano.
Unfortunately, however, the grilled shrimp is a main course available only at La Calaca. This is a spectacular presentation, sublime in its apparent simplicity – a feast for the eye as well as the palate. The crustaceans are pristinely fresh and crunchy, beautifully seasoned, and artfully arranged around an epicenter of tequila grits and bacon corn salsa. Trust me, this dish is reason enough to prompt a gastronomic sojourn to Philly.
Another item unique to the Fairmount location is a starter of jicama salad. Commonly referred to as the “Mexican turnip,” the interior of jicama’s tubular root exhibits a creamy white color and crisp texture that resembles raw potato or pear. The flavor is sweet and slightly starchy, reminiscent of certain varieties of apples.
And here that sweetness is utilized to good advantage, as a company of wafer thin slices are teamed with mixed greens, avocado, cucumber, radish, tangy grapefruit sections, and smattering of pumpkin seeds. The pièce de résistance, however, is an incomparably subtle and beguiling pumpkin seed dressing. An absolute killer of a salad; and yet another dish that is surely worth a journey.
On the other hand, Fort Washington’s Cantina Feliz appears to have a lock on Brussels sprouts. This is one veggie that elicits rather strong emotions: You either love them or hate them. And I, most assuredly, am of the former persuasion. If you also happen to be a fan and stop in for dinner, be sure to order up a side of roasted sprouts. They arrive swimming in a rich tequila cream sauce sprinkled with cheese and breadcrumbs. Excellent. Just one word of caution. In the photo, please note the garnish of radish slices… these are sprinkled with a spice of pequin peppers, chilies that are many times hotter than jalapeños… So don’t say I didn’t warn you!
Should you put in an appearance at lunch or brunch, the bacon and Brussels sprouts huarache is not to be missed. This is a marvelously crisp, beautifully textured Mexican flatbread that is topped with bacon crumbles, roasted Brussels sprout halves, caramelized onions, and sprinkling of baby arugula. But it is a generous slathering of San Simón crema – a light cream sauce made from San Simón da Costa, a not-so-well-known cow’s milk cheese hailing from the region of Galicia in Northeastern Spain – that sends the dish into orbit with the infusion of its delightfully smoky flavor.
The dessert menu is short and sweet, if you’ll pardon the pun. But there’s really only one you need to know – the Mexican chocolate cake – and it’s a showstopper. A cake with brownie-like cake consistency is combined with spicy chocolate ganache, chocolate crunch, and set in a pool of passion fruit reduction. A scoop of banana ice cream adds the crowning touch, along with a tiara of pepita (pumpkin seed) brittle. A fabulously delicious and photogenic finish.
Inevitably, when two restaurants are mentioned in the same review, questions often arise as to which may be slightly (or infinitely) better than the other. On the basis of the quality of food and service, I recommend both Cantina Feliz and La Calaca Feliz with equal enthusiasm. While the cuisine at La Calaca may be a touch more avant-garde, the kitchens at both restaurants acquit themselves with similar distinction. Food-wise, in other words, you really can’t go wrong at either.
When it comes to ambiance, a great deal depends upon what you’re looking for. If you’re in the mood for the typical bustling suburban dining/bar scene, you’ll feel right at home at Cantina Feliz, especially on a frenetic free-for-all Saturday night. On the other hand, if you prefer the laid back, sophisticated, slightly funky vibes of one of Philly’s more vibrant neighborhoods (in this instance, Fairmount), La Calaca is definitely where it’s at.
Oh, by the way… Messrs. Spinner and Sirhal recently debuted their newest culinary venture, Pizzeria Felici, a restaurant & wine bar located at 303 Horsham Road, Suite F, in Horsham, Pa. If you’re feeling Italian and lyrical, you might want to give it a try.
Bon Appétit!
TAD
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