Tandoor Authentic Indian Restaurant
130 West Main Street
Collegeville, Pennsylvania
(610) 828-8245
Tucked away in the Trappe Shopping Center next to Bhavani Indian-Asian Food Market, Tandoor inhabits the space formerly occupied by Indian Villa. The restaurant, it should be noted, is the youngest sibling of a small family of eateries also located in Philadelphia’s University City and Fishtown districts (with two more on the drawing board).
Tandoor is an interesting restaurant for a variety of reasons – some good… some not so good. But let’s begin on a positive note. The food here is undoubtedly the best Indian cuisine I’ve sampled in quite some time. And the chef, an elderly bearded gentleman who looks like he just stepped out of Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom (a film set in India), is as authentic as the scrumptious vittles he prepares.
To start things off, nothing quite tops the mulligatawny soup. The name literally means “pepper water” and is, in reality, an English soup based on an Indian recipe (the original Indian dish was a sauce that was served with rice). The original rendition of the soup consisted of a broth from chicken and lamb, fried onions, and curry powder. Today, however, it designates a thickened soup that is generally comprised of lentils, tomatoes, a healthy dose curry & nutmeg and, occasionally, port wine.
I’ve never been a particular fan of mulligatawny, as most of the variations I’ve tasted over the years have been rather insipid; Tandoor’s version, however, is incredibly enticing. Tomato based and rich in color and texture, it is beautifully seasoned and sports just enough heat to tantalize rather than paralyze your delicate innards. A winner in every respect… this is one soup that’s worth a journey.
The papri chaat is another first-rate opening move. Papri refers to crisp fried dough wafers that are combined with diced boiled potatoes and chickpeas. The dish is served cool (not chilled), crowned with a refreshing splash of yogurt and the delightful tang of a sweet-sour tamarind sauce. Papri chaat is an excellent alternative to the usual run-of-the-mill bland-leading-the bland lettuce-based salads.
My favorite prelude, however, is the gobi Manchurian, cauliflower fritters, the result of the adaptation of Chinese cooking and seasoning techniques to suit Indian tastes. Though its exact genealogy is uncertain, it is believed that the dish was developed by a small Chinese community living in Kolkata, formerly Calcutta. While its origin may be up for grabs, one thing is certain: When properly prepared, as it is here, gobi Manchurian is utterly delicious.
The dish is prepared in two stages. In the first stage, cauliflower florets are rolled in a spiced corn flour batter and then deep fried. In the second stage, the florets are sautéed with chopped onion, peppers, and garlic in a combination of soy and chili sauces. The florets are lightly breaded and not at all soggy; and there is just the proper interplay between sweetness and tangy spice. A downright addictive presentation.
will also find the usual samosas and pakoras. The former are deep-fried triangular turnovers stuffed with spicy potatoes and peas or meats; the latter offer various items dipped in lentil batter and then deep fried. Seafood lovers might give the fish pakoras a try, as the tilapia fritters are light as air and are accompanied by zippy tamarind and mint chutney dipping sauces.
As you move on to the main courses, the chef really begins to show his stuff. The tandoori chicken is one of the restaurant’s more straightforward offerings, but still absolutely top-notch. Chicken leg quarters are marinated in a mixture of yogurt, a variety of fresh spices & lemon juice and then cooked in the slow steady heat of the tandoor oven. The result is flesh that is outlandishly moist & tender and alive with the earthy aroma and taste of the oven. Simple but sublime.
On the other hand, the curries (or sauces) are exceptional. And among the vegetarian possibilities, there are several standouts. The first, my absolute favorite Indian vegetarian dish, is the baingan bartha. Roasted pureed eggplant is combined with fresh tomatoes, peas, ginger, garlic, onions, and fresh herbs. The sauce is rich, packed with flavor and, even when ordered “mild,” contains just enough heat to keep those juices flowing.
The second is a saag curry, a creamy spinach gravy rife with aromatic spices. This may be combined with many other items, lamb and chicken, for example. But the vegetarian version contains roasted chickpeas (garbanzo beans), which not only boost the flavor but also add a nice contrasting texture as well.
As you move on to the non-vegetarian items, two deserve particular mention. The first is the chicken tikka masala, the most popular Indian entrée served in America, a dish that is velvety smooth and seductively rich on the palate. The recipe begins with chicken cubes that are marinated in yogurt and spices. They are then briefly broiled in a tandoor oven and finished in a mildly spicy tomato & onion cream sauce.
Just be forewarned. That seductive silkiness comes at a price – a good deal of heavy cream… although Tandoor’s version isn’t quite as creamy as most other recipes I’ve sampled recently.
The lamb rogan josh is an aromatic dish of Persian origin. Rogan josh literally means “cooked in oil at intense heat.” It consists of braised lamb chunks cooked with a gravy based on browned onions or shallots, yogurt, garlic, ginger, and spices such as cloves, bay leaves, cardamom, cinnamon, and dried Kashmiri chilies that have been de-seeded to reduce their heat. This recipe’s spice, it should be noted, is one of aroma rather than heat, and is mild enough to be appreciated by Western palates.
In both cases the curries were exceptional. But then came the rub… the objects of their affections were not. The cubes of chicken in the tikka masala were woefully overcooked and dry, and the braised lamb chunks in the rogan josh were inordinately chewy.
Disappointing, to be sure. But there are two perfectly plausible explanations for this gastronomic anomaly. Since most Indian Restaurants, Tandoor included, serve a luncheon buffet seven days a week, there is always the distinct possibility that evening diners could be munching away on luncheon leftovers rather than made to order. And there is absolutely no question that a prolonged exile on a steam table will have a deleterious effect on the foodstuffs in question.
Secondly: A majority of eateries are closed on Mondays… and those that are not usually give the chef the day off. Since this less than edifying dining experience did take place on a Monday evening, it is quite likely that the real chef had been absent from the premises and that a stand-in bear was responsible for mucking things up royally.
So you pays your money and takes your choice. Whatever the explanation, however – or nefarious combination thereof – suffice it to say that this faux pas should never have occurred.
But there are also several other items that need attention. Service, to be sure. On our first visit, the server was a rather disheveled gentleman we took to be a manager. He seemed very nervous, kept running his fingers through his hair, and definitely was having communications issues – which, in turn, caused major confusion in the kitchen.
On our second visit, the server was a young man who seemed to be treating us to his first day as an illustrious representative of the food service industry. How did I determine this? Well… among other things, when I was fortunate enough to interrupt his labors, he was in the process of attempting to open our screw cap bottle of wine with a corkscrew. Need I say more?
One concluding note. Tandoor’s décor seems half dressed. You can’t quite shake the feeling that the banquettes had been rolled in a scant ten minutes before you arrived. The place just seems… well, yes… not quite ready to rock N roll on a number of fronts.
On the other hand, in all fairness, as the restaurant has only been open for business since the beginning of September, hopefully many of these issues, including the few missteps with the otherwise first-rate cuisine, will soon be worked out. Definitely worth a visit, however. Just be sure to BYOB.
Bon Appétit!
TAD
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