Alto Adige – or Südtirol to the German-speaking two-thirds of its inhabitants – is located in northeast Italy, bordered by Lombardy on the west, Veneto on the east, and Austria on the north. Elena Walch is a leading wine estate in the Alto Adige region and is also considered one of the finest in Italy.
Born in Milan, Elena Walch had been an architect before marrying into a winemaking family in 1985 and moving to the Alto Adige. When she first arrived on the scene, she was considered something of an oddity, as there were not many women in architecture at that time. To add to her new neighbors’ curiosity, she then transitioned out of architecture and began to overhaul and make changes to the family’s winery. “Twenty-five years ago,” she laughed in a recent interview, “being a woman in winemaking was very suspicious.”
When she took over the reins, Alto Adige was making a great deal of red wine. However, she began to plant more of the whites – at first, Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, and Pinot Bianco. She drastically lowered yields, made investments in different trellising, implemented higher density plantings, and began using high quality clones.
The philosophy of her wine estate is dedicated to its terroir – the idea that wines must be the individual expression of their soil, climate, and cultivation in the vineyard – and that this must be maintained according to principles of sustainability and passed on to the next generation. And the responsibility for the family business is now being put into the hands of her daughters, Julia and Karoline Walch, already the fifth generation.
The wines show character, elegance, and great personality. The superb climatic conditions and excellent location of the vineyards produce fresh and fruity white wines, as well as concentrated and velvety red wines.
The 2013 Elena Walch Castel Ringberg Pinot Grigio ($21.00 approximate) is a great example of the estate’s winemaking prowess. It is mostly made in stainless steel tanks, but 15% is fermented and aged in wood in order to provide more heft and depth of flavor. The 2013 is complex, full-bodied and sports a lip-smacking acidity and clean, fresh finish. If you’re tired of those cumbersome, over-oaked California Chards, this Pinot Grigio is sure to provide a refreshing change of pace. A marvelous, food-friendly wine at a very reasonable price!
2013 Elena Walch Lagrein ($15.00 approximate) – Lagrein is a grape that may be unfamiliar to many wine lovers. But is undoubtedly native to Italy’s Trentino-Alto Adige region and has been grown in the area for hundreds of years. It produces wines that are strong and full bodied; and the variety is particularly well known for the deep, dense color it imparts to its wines. Like Pinot Noir, Lagrein is a finicky grape that requires constant attention. However, when it is well made, it offers an excellent alternative to other full bodied wines such as Cabernet Sauvignon.
The 2013 Elena Walch is made from 100% Lagrein. It is full bodied, exhibits smooth tannins, and is also quite elegant. Traditional fermentation takes place for about 10 days at controlled temperature in stainless steel tanks. Malolactic (second) fermentation and maturation take place in large French oak barrels, which adds additional complexity, lush fruit and subtle spices. A first-rate, moderately priced wine, the 2013 Lagrein offers a welcome alternative to those overblown and overpriced California Cabs. Because of its very strong character, this is a wine that makes a wonderful accompaniment to game, red meat, and cheese. Definitely worth a try.
Cheers!
TAD
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