Recently, my wife & I, and two other couples, hosted a session of our community wine club in which participants sampled seven (7) Spanish wines. Here’s Part II: Favorite Spanish Red Wines…
SPANISH RED WINES:
2008 Glorioso Rioja Reserva, $15.00 – Rioja is Spain’s most celebrated wine region. However, there are actually three unique districts that compose the Rioja: the two cooler climates of Rioja Alta and Rioja Alavesa, and the balmier region of Rioja Baja. Strategically placed between the Atlantic and the Mediterranean, the Rioja region produces the majority of its acclaimed red wines from the Tempranillo grape, in addition to growing Garnacha, Mazuelo, and Graciano – which are often used for blending with Tempranillo.
The 2008 Glorioso Rioja Reserva is produced by Bodegas Palacio. The winery was founded in 1904 by Don Cosme de Palacio, who went on to establish the legendry Vega Sicilia estate in Ribero del Duero. In the 1990s, Palacio was acquired by Hijos de Antonio Barcelo, one of Spain’s largest winemaking conglomerates, itself part of the giant Acconia group. Thanks to a high level of investment, Palacio has been able to expand, modernize, and thrive.
The Glorioso line was created in 1928 and is Palacio’s most popular wine and the most regional in style – although its aging in Bordeaux French oak barrels for 16 months is hardly typical. It is this type of aging, however, that provides the elegant, sophisticated touches for this this brand is known. The nose is rife with cedar and vanilla; on the palate, the wine is exceptionally smooth and well balanced, with soft, integrated tannins and a long expressive finish. A wonderful wine… and the price is right.
2007 Pittacum Mencía, $21.00 – Tucked away in the village of Arganza (population 90; average age 70) in the remote mountainous district of Bierzo in northern Spain, Viñedos y Bodegas Pittacum was founded in 1999. Pitticum is the Roman name for an amphora, several of which, dating back to the occupation by Rome, were discovered on the site. The vineyards are comprised of old vines ranging in age from 50- to 80-years-old and are farmed as organically as possible. 65% of the Winery was acquired by Terras Gaudas wine group in 2002.
85% of the Pittacum’s vineyards are planted with Mencía, a thick skinned violet-blue grape that was once thought to be related to Cabernet Franc. Modern DNA testing has disproved this theory, however, but has uncovered the fact that the grape is indigenous to the Iberian Peninsula and is genetically identical to Portugal’s Jaen. Mencía generally produces freshly acidic, robustly tannic wines that are on the spicy side with peppery notes and berrylike fruit; interestingly enough, faintly reminiscent of Cabernet Franc.
The 2007 Pittacum Mencía is comprised of grapes from vines of different ages from different vineyards with different characteristics. Vinification in stainless steel takes place separately according to the individual vineyards. The wine is then aged for approximately 8 months in 50/50 French and American oak, 1/3 each new, 1 & 2 years old. The result is a heady, complex wine with its own unique personality. It is rich, lush, and silky smooth on the palate, exhibiting plenty of ripe fruit and a slightly smoky finish. The hefty 14.5% alcohol is perfectly balanced with the medium tannins and acidity. Definitely not your usual run-of-the-mill fare… The perfect match for a hearty steak.
2011 Las Rocas de San Alejandro, $12.00 – Deep in the interior of Aragon, Spain, is a wine region that few have heard of: Calatayud. The air is dry, the terrain is unforgiving, and shattered rock stretches as far as the eye can see. It would seem that nothing could grow here…
Yet, somehow, Garnacha vines thrive on the arid, rocky slopes of Calatayud, creating some of the world’s most sought-after wines. Spain is one of the few places where vintners bottle pure Garnacha – or Grenache, as it is called outside of Spain – and Calatayud is home to some of the country’s highest Garnacha vineyards.
Rooted deep in rocky, limestone soils at elevations of up to 3,500 feet, these vines see intense sunlight, prompting thicker skins and, ultimately, grapes with richer flavors. Cool evening temperatures mean fruit with greater acidity, giving Las Rocas wines a unique elegance and structure.
Many of Calatayud’s Garnacha vines are nearly a century old, producing rich, robust wines. With flavors and tannins reminiscent of a Cabernet Sauvignon, matched by a structure similar to Pinot Noir, Las Rocas Garnacha has a distinct palate of red fruit, black pepper, and earthy notes.
The 2011 Las Rocas Garnacha comes from the cooperatives of Bodegas San Alejandro, an association of hundreds of small growers in Calatayud, one of the most productive of the Spanish regions. After harvest, the grapes were cold-soaked and fermented at temperatures between 75 and 82 degrees. During fermentation, the juice remained in contact with the skins for 15 days. Malolactic (a second) fermentation allowed the juices to acquire a softer texture, pleasing to the palate and easy to enjoy. During the aging process, a small part of the Garnacha was barreled in French and American oak, creating a subtle overtone to the final product.
This is a hefty wine, weighing in at 14.9% alcohol, with pronounced tannins and slightly bitter notes of black cherry and dark chocolate… But it also a food-friendly wine, marrying well with traditional meat dishes and strong cheeses. And, retailing at around $12.00 a bottle, it is a price-friendly wine as well.
2011 Bodegas la Magdelena Sueño Tempranillo, $13.00 – Situated between Madrid and Alicante – in a kind of Spanish no man’s land – lies the Ribera del Júcar, a recently-awakened-from-its-slumber wine region. The Tempranillo grape has been experiencing a renaissance in worldwide wine production; and this surge began partly as a result of the efforts of a “new wave” of Spanish growers and co-ops, like the Bodega la Magdalena, who have demonstrated that it is possible to produce wines of great character and quality in areas outside of Rioja. Magdalena is a co-operative winery founded by 60 local growers in 1958 that presently has grown to 290 partners who deliver grapes from over 1,600 acres of property. In 1990, they began to label their wine products under the “Vega Moragena” brand. Today, armed with the newest in winemaking technologies, they’re committed to producing the highest quality Spanish wines. With an altitude reaching 2,400 feet, gentle slopes, varying soil textures, and layers of pebbles, the Ribera del Júcar is a genuine micro-climate indigenous to grow extraordinary Tempranillo
The 2011 Sueño, which means “dream” in Spanish, is sourced from 50-year old vines with low yields; the result is an exceedingly rich red with marvelous concentration. And the 10 months spent in small oak casks has added even more character to the vintage. This is a heady wine, but also supple and elegant with soft balanced tannins. Wine guru Robert Parker rated the 2011 Sueño a whopping 91 on his 100-point scale and noted: “The oak is very well integrated… and it lends the dark chocolate-tinged finish a seamless quality and weight without impinging upon the terroir character.” This is a great Spanish red at any price… but the fact that it retails around $13.00 a bottle makes it something of an oenological no-brainer.
Bon Appétit!
TAD
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