Two Favorite Italian Wines

by artfuldiner on June 16, 2014

in Artful Diner Mini Review, Opinion, Wine

WINE OF THE MONTH -July 2014-12013 Giovanni Almondo Arneis Bricco delle Ciliegie – Arneis (pronounced ahr-NAYZ) is a white wine grape that originated and is still primarily grown in the Roero hills of Italy’s southern Piedmont district. It has risen from relative obscurity to become what some people consider the most interesting white wine grape in Piedmont.

Traditionally, Arneis was grown interspersed with red Nebbiolo. Occasionally it was blended with certain red grapes to soften their impact on the palate; more often, however, it was used to keep birds & bees away from the more important reds. Only in the late seventies and early eighties did vintners begin making significant amounts of wine from Arneis. In point of fact, from 1989 to 1998, production of Roero Arneis quadrupled, with vineyard plantings surging from three hundred acres to more than one thousand.

The Almondo family has tended Arneis vines for generations. The old vines of the single vineyard, Bricco delle Ciliegie, are rooted in sand that covers an old ocean bed. And the sandy soil seems to be the preferred habitat of Arneis, as the wines Almondo produces are quite extraordinary.

I first sampled Almondo’s 2012, which was, indeed, excellent… But the 2013 is even better. It is a medium bodied wine that is both fruity and floral on the nose; and these characteristics carry over onto the palate, along with a marvelous mineral freshness that is reminiscent of a fine white Burgundy. And it is this refreshing minerality that makes the 2013 Arneis the perfect wine to pair with rich food… or to enjoy on its own as an aperitif for immensely satisfying spring and summer quaffing.

The 2013 Giovanni Almondo Arneis Bricco delle Ciliegie retails for around $28.00 per bottle and is definitely a wine worth seeking out. Just be advised… Only about 300 cases were produced, so the supply is limited. If you don’t want to miss out, I’d get a move on.

 

 

WINE OF THE MONTH - July 2014-22009 Poliziano Vino Nobile di Montepulciano – Poliziano is located on the slopes below Montepulciano near the village of Gracciano in Tuscany. The Poliziano Estate was founded in 1961 when Federico Carletti’s father, Dino, purchased 55 acres. Today it consists of over 500 acres.

After taking his degree in agriculture, Federico Carletti worked in northern Italy. In 1980, he returned to Tuscany and began working full time on his father’s estate. In the past two decades, Federico has created some of the finest wines in this top quality wine-producing area. Federico chose the name “Poliziano” because he loved the work of renowned native poet Angelo Ambrogini., who was also known as Il Poliziano, because he came from Montepulciano.  Ambrogini’s portrait hangs in the tasting room in the center of the estate, and several of Poliziano’s wines are named after the poet.

To quote the winemaker: “We give the Prugnolo Gentile (Sangiovese) grape our closest attention and care. This characteristic grape of Montepulciano expresses the full potential of a region with an acknowledged gift for viticulture. The result is our Vino Nobile di Montepulciano – well structured, with longevity and perfumes that are intense but not exaggerated, faithfully expressive of deep, Tuscan roots and the ancient bond between the soil, man and culture.”

And the 2009 vintage is a blend of 85% Sangiovese and 15% Colorino, Canaiolo & Merlot. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel vats at a controlled temperature followed by 14 – 16 months of aging in wood. Two-thirds are refined in barriques and tonneaux of French Oak (80% second-use; 20% new), and one-third in traditional casks.

The result is a magnificent example of Mr. Carletti’s winemaking art. The wine is bright ruby in color, exuding aromas of ripe fruit, spices and vanilla. On the palate, it is medium bodied, complex and beautifully structured with fresh acidity and soft integrated tannins. This is an Old World classic that is neither overly rustic nor compromisingly modern. It is powerful yet elegant; and downright seductive… And the price is pretty seductive as well: approximately $24.00 – $28.00 a bottle. This is a gorgeous wine that I cannot recommend highly enough.

Cheers!

TAD

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