Italian Wines East and West

by artfuldiner on March 20, 2014

in Artful Diner Mini Review, Opinion, Wine

WINE OF THE MONTH - April 2014-12011 Jermann Chardonnay – In the early 1970s, eccentric, gifted winemaker Silvio Jermann initiated a revolution in Italian winemaking. It took place in Friuli, in the extreme northeastern corner of Italy, next door to Slovenia. Mr. Jermann, educated in two of the country’s renowned wine academies, defied the practice of making dull, uninspiring wines, and was among the first to introduce stainless steel tanks in Italy. For the first time since 1881, when the his great-grandfather moved from Austria to Friuli and founded the winery, the cleanliness and control afforded by stainless steel tanks allowed Silvio to make a totally different breed of white wine, to this day considered by many the finest in Italy.

Jermann’s iconic Vintage Tunina, for example – a blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Ribolla Gialla, Malvasia, and Picolit – is often referred to as the first Italian “Super Friulian,” in the same sense that “Super Tuscan” reds broke tradition and combined multiple grape varietals into successful blends. Vintage Tunina made its debut in 1975 and today sells in the $60.00 – $75.00 price range, which is unusually high for an Italian white wine in the United States.

The 2011 Jermann Chardonnay carries on the Winery’s illustrious tradition with style, but at a more modest, approximately $26.00, price tag. Vinified from 100% Chardonnay grapes, the 2011 is a superb vintage. The wine exhibits a brilliant straw-yellow color, exudes an intense and fruity aroma, and is charmingly persistent on the palate.

It is also, thankfully, completely UN-oaked, which intensifies rather than diminishes the natural attributes of the Chardonnay grape. This also makes this wine infinitely more food-friendly than many of those ponderously over-oaked California monstrosities. The light, refreshing character of the 2011 Jermann Chardonnay, make it a most suitable companion for fish and shellfish and the perfect foil for rich, creamy sauces.

 

WINE OF THE MONTH - April 2014-22012 Indigenous Selections Barbera del Monferrato – Situated in Italy’s northwestern Piedmont region, Barbera del Monferrato is probably the least known of the three Piedmontese classified Barbera zones, the others being Asti and Alba. Interestingly enough, Monferrato is the largest of the trio, incorporating approximately 10,320 acres, most centering around the province of Alessandria.

All Barbera del Monferrato wines must comprise at least 85% Barbera, the remaining 15% made up of any combination of Freisa, Grignolino, and Dolcetto. The superiore wines are required to contain at least 13% alcohol by volume and be aged for at least 14 months before release (including a minimum of six months in oak).

Whereas wines from Asti and Alba tend to be strongly structured, those from Monferrato are more aromatic and less robust. They are also known for their balanced acidity – making them the perfect partners for tomato-based dishes – and gentle tannins, which make them immediately approachable.

The 2012 Barbera del Monferrato is from Indigenous Selections, a highly-specialized import firm owned by Giorgio Rivetti, who is also the winemaker/proprietor of the famous La Spinetta Winery.

Giorgio Rivetti, Italian WinemakerIn less than a decade, Mr. Rivetti has become one of the leading oenological forces in Piedmont. And his magic touch is quite apparent in this stunning Barbera. The color is ruby red, the nose rife with dark fruits, and the taste sleek & elegant with a long finish buttressed by sweet tannins. This is a wine to savor.

Normally retailing around the $25.00 mark, but currently on sale at some retailers for a mere $12.99, you’re certain to savor the price as well. I’ve already laid in a case… but, trust me, there’s still plenty to go around.

Cheers!

TAD

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