2007 Hugel Pinot Gris Classic, Alsace, France
Of all the French wines I’ve sampled over the years, those from the Alsatian region remain my absolute favorites. Alsatian wines aren’t particularly hyped in the press. But their vintages are, for the most part, quite reasonably priced; and, in my opinion, their quality is more consistent across the board than those hailing from either Burgundy or Bordeaux – where it is, unfortunately, possible to spend a king’s ransom and still come away with a bottle of Algerian bilge.
Hugel & Fils, located in the picturesque village of Riquewihr, is a marvelous example of Alsatian’s excellent producers. Founded in 1672 by Hans Ulrich Hugel, a Swiss national who left his home country during the Thirty Years’ War, the winery continues to offer a diverse variety of wines: from inexpensive vintages produced from purchased grapes, to top level dry wines from grapes cultivated in winery’s own vineyards.
The 2007 Hugel Pinot Gris Classic is a basic level wine that, nevertheless, has been highly praised by amateur oenophiles and professional wine critics alike. Going for about $18.00 – $20.00, it is, most assuredly, given its superior quality, an absolute bargain. A backbone of sparkling minerality & acidity complement creamy nuances of tangy fruit, all perfectly balanced by 13% alcohol.
Although incredibly quaffable at present, this marvelously food friendly dry white wine will certainly continue to develop length and complexity. Wine guru Robert Parker is undoubtedly correct when he asserts: “This is going to make a terrific table wine over the next 8-10 years.” … And Ralph Steadman’s artwork on the label is pretty cool as well.
2009 Trimbach Pinot Noir Reserve, Alsace, France
Trimbach, another of my favorite Alsatian producers, has been making wine in this region since 1626. And this venerable winery’s flagship is undoubtedly their incomparable “Cuvee Frederic Emile” Riesling. A wine of great character and complexity, its underlying fruit is held in check by a magnificently muscular acidity. And, unlike many over-oaked Chardonnays from the New World, it is bone dry… yet fresh and vibrant upon the palate. If you’re interested, it goes for between $45.00 – $75.00, sometimes more, depending upon the vintage. Exquisite… and incredibly age worthy.
But Trimbach, like other Alsatian wineries, also produces a Pinot Noir. In point of fact, Pinot Noir is the only approved grape for red wine in Alsace… Be that as it may, because the region’s climate, except in warmer years, isn’t particularly suited to this grape’s rather finicky & delicate temperament, during colder growing seasons, Pinot Noir is often morphed into Rosé wines.
However, Trimbach’s 2009 Pinot Noir Reserve is a most satisfying example of the winemaker’s art overcoming often adverse climatic conditions. The wine is on the lean side (that is, on the light side of medium bodied) but still quite supple and silky. You note hints of strawberry & fresh red cherries, with pleasant undertones of what the French term sous-bois, the refreshing smell of damp undergrowth after an autumn rain. And this particular wine is not matured in barrels (no oak), assuring that the fresh fruit flavors are allowed to shine through.
Priced at about $20.00, give or take, the 2009 Trimbach Pinot Noir Reserve is a comparative bargain. If you enjoy the subtle nuances of a first-rate Pinot Noir, you will certainly want to give this one a try.
Cheers!
TAD
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