In his review of Copper Canyon in Atlantic Highlands, New Jersey, NY Times’ restaurant reviewer Scott Veale writes like a man who isn’t quite sure of what he’s about… He also sounds more like a commercial than a critic.
Mr. Veale, of course, is editor of the Times’ “Arts & Leisure” section. Does this qualify him to pass culinary judgments on various and sundry Garden State restaurants and cuisines…? Hardly… ditto former NJ reviewer David Corcoran’s position as assistant science editor.
While the Times conducts scrupulous searches to secure just the proper candidate to evaluate NYC’s diverse dining dens, New Jersey restaurant reviewers appear to be chosen on an “Oh, by the way, would you like to…?” basis. And that isn’t particularly reassuring to residents of the country’s most densely populated state.
But back to the issue in hand… Mr. Veale waxes positively lyrical with regard to the “welcoming atmosphere,” the “gentle furnishings,” the chef/proprietor’s James Beard nomination, the quality of the cuisine, “traveling beyond the guacamole,” ad infinitum, ad nauseam.
But… and this is a mighty big “but…” If you happen to check out Yelp, Trip Advisor, or Urbanspoon with regard to this establishment you get quite a different picture, as reviews are decidedly mixed. Am I intimating that Mr. Veale’s assessment is completely in the wrong…? Au contraire! But I am suggesting that his unbridled, gushing enthusiasm may be due to a variety of independent variables (his inexperience, for one) and rather misleading to potential diners.
I personally reviewed this restaurant in November 2007. And while my own critique may appear slightly dated, based upon the comments I’ve noticed on the above-mentioned customer opinion sights, it appears – still, at this point in time – to be right on the money.
Interestingly enough, while comments with regard to the Southwestern cuisine range rather widely, one factor continually raises its ugly head. If Copper Canyon appears to have one Achilles’ heel, it is undoubtedly the service, which is variously described as vacillating between “arrogant” and “horrible.” And yet… this is the one issue that Mr. Veale studiously ignores in the body of his review.
For a more balanced and, I believe, a more realistic perspective on Copper Canyon, be sure to take a glance at my review, as well as the comments posted on Trip Advisor, Urbanspoon, and Yelp.
Bon Appétit!
TAD
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