Casa Bellisima in Andover

CASA BELLISIMA

269 Newton-Sparta Road

Andover, Sussex County, NJ

(973) 579-7711

http://www.thebusinessneighborhood.com/sitecreator1/casabellisima/

 

Five plus years have passed since I first reviewed Casa Bellisima, which made its debut in July 2004. And, apparently, not a great deal has changed in the interim. This Italian enclave is still very much alive and well and – if a recent Saturday evening holiday season visit is any indication – still packing them in.

 

Casa Bellisima means “beautiful house,” and this establishment certainly lives up to its name. The exterior is stately and attractive, immediately catching the eye; the inside is decked out in handsome wall sconces and matching carpeting, comfortably cushioned chairs, and well-spaced tables. The cozy bar area is especially agreeable and certainly the perfect venue for couples seeking a refuge from the madding crowd that often inhabits the main dining room. And since the restaurant only accepts reservations for parties of five or more, it’s best to come early.

 

Proprietors Dina and Eddie Xhudlo – she handles the front of the house, he holds forth in the kitchen – obviously invested a great deal of time and thought (and money) to make certain that the ambiance would push all the right buttons… And it does. My only regret – and that regret persists – is that the cuisine is not commensurate with the sophisticated surroundings. It has improved since my previous visit – as has the service – but it is still on the variable side. One must pick and choose with care.

 

 

And this was precisely the same scenario that I recorded in my initial review. The eggplant rollatini was first rate: The eggplant was beautifully sautéed, the ricotta based filling was wonderfully creamy, and the rich marinara was counterbalanced with just the proper hint of acidity. Conversely, the clams prepared oreganata were sequestered beneath a heavy, soggy breading and surrounded by an overly viscous sauce.

 

Once again, however, it is entrées that provide the biggest disappointment… and veal continues to be the chief culprit. And suffice it to say that this is not the real deal… It is processed veal, which means it exhibits a texture somewhat reminiscent of wet Styrofoam… with taste to match. In this instance, it was the “saltimbocca” that was a good deal less than palatable. The veal was so overcooked that it literally crumbled in the mouth – “turned to ashes” would be a more fitting description. Accessories to the fact were roasted potato wedges, which were really quite good, and an overdone broccoli floret, which was not.

 

 

In this instance, even the pasta didn’t quite make the grade. The rigatori filetto di pomodoro certainly had all the right ingredients – onion, prosciutto, and basil – but the tomato sauce was decidedly gloppy and lacked character.

 

 

Casa Bellisima remains wildly popular, and it is easy to see why. Prices are more than reasonable, portions are generous, and the surroundings are pleasantly appointed – all of which give the illusion, if not the substance, of fine dining.

 

In my opinion, however, the food still falls significantly short of the mark. I realize that this is a minority report and will probably influence the diners in the Sussex County area not at all. And I also have no doubt that it will have little or no effect on the proprietors, who have clearly found their own unique formula for success and who are, presumably, laughing about this review all the way to the bank.